Many a Beijing love affair begins not with grandiose palaces or extravagant architecture but with that first sight of humble hutong and the courtyards that lie within.

These hutong, or alleys, are disappearing under the pace of modern development. Yet they linger still in all their understated glory in a few pockets of the city, such as around the pretty Qianhai and Houhai lakes (generally called Shichahai) just north of Beihai Park.

No tour of the city is complete without a visit to these maze-like lanes which, like nowhere else in Beijing, offer a wonderful glimpse into a way of life which is changing fast. Many of the hutong were named after a highly specialised trade or service provided there. To the relief of many, cars cannot fit in the majority of these narrow lanes, a fact of nature which has helped preserve their age-old character for so long.

In the past, you'd find lanes dedicated to hat making, fish, rice, sheep or trousers...you name it! Several are still bustling centers of commerce and all which remain possess a living, vibrant character of their own.

While the Houhai area has evolved into an entertainment district with scores of tiny bars nestling cheek by jowl along the banks of the lake, look closer and you'll see old Beijingers who still live here playing chess, exercising or simply shooting the breeze with friends.

This mixture of old and new makes this Beijing beauty spot a favorite haunt for locals and visitors alike. In spring, summer and autumn, the lake becomes the focal point for lazy Sunday strolls, boating (you may even catch a glimpse of Dragon Boat racing) and socialising.

Come winter, the lake freezes over and is transformed by nature into an outdoor skating rink where old and young come to play. There's nothing more pleasant than to brave winter's chill and then relax with a warming hot chocolate in one of the cafes now surrounding the lake.

Pedicab tours take the trouble out of picking your way through the hutong here, though it's also a delight to walk or cycle yourself. On some tours, you may be invited inside a courtyard house, or siheyuan as they're known locally. If you get the opportunity, take it!

This is where local families have lived for centuries, often several generations under the same carefully ordered roof. Like hutong, they were built according to a plan dating back to the Han Dynasty (206 BC-AD 220) and follow classic principles of feng shui. You'll see how order and harmony are the key values treasured in the layout of these compact yet elegant structures that centre on inner and outer courtyards.

With many now giving way to fully serviced high-rises, the value of a visit is higher than ever. Once experienced in person, Beijing's hutong and siheyuan are impossible to forget. Indeed they form the highlight for many a first-time trip to China's fast-changing capital city.

Don't miss them!

Beijing - The Magnificent City 2004-2005.

Hardback, 271 glorious pictures on 157 full-colour glossy pages, 235x315mm.

RMB260 / US$34.95