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A Place Called Home

Just five years ago, finding a place to live in Beijing was almost impossible for a foreigner. There were strict rules and regulations concerning housing, which basically meant that foreigners had to live where they were told, and that was that. So Beijing's foreigners ended up settling into expatriate "ghettos" all over town, whether in diplomatic compounds, in assigned company housing or at State-designated hotels.

Times have changed, and distinctions between foreign and local housing now matter little if at all. So the choices available to newcomers run the gamut, meaning that all the usual difficulties of finding a place in a big city, alongside the obvious problems of doing it all in Chinese, are in play.

On the upside, however, is the fact that Beijing has accommodations to meet almost any budget. From 600 yuan (US$74.8) a month to 80,000 yuan (US$9,981) a month, from a street-level flat to a high-rise apartment with a view to a siheyuan (courtyard) villa in the suburbs, Beijing has a home for everyone, and we know where they are.

Room in a siheyuan

600 yuan a month

Qianmen

Stephen Philips was on a tight budget when he arrived in Beijing.

"When I first arrived I had to find the cheapest place possible. But, in the end I just loved living in the hutong. They are perfect for an immersion in Chinese living; I was the only foreigner in the whole area."

The courtyard residences found along the narrow hutong alleyways are the hidden treasures of Beijing. They capture a life far removed from the fast paced, high-rise modernity found almost everywhere else in the city. A stroll through the streets on a spring day will reveal a life unchanged for centuries. But you'll have to leave basic luxuries at the door.

"There was no toilet or hot water in the courtyard. Just a communal stone sink for everyone. But, the public toilets in the street were pretty good compared to some. And I loved going to the yushi (public baths). They were a great place to practise my Chinese."

But there's rarely be any heating or air-conditioning, which can make it very uncomfortable during the height of summer or winter, Phillips said, "I lasted until mid-December. The room was way too big to heat, and it was getting below zero in my bed."

In siheyuan life is very communal, with up to eight families living in separate rooms around the same courtyard, generating a constant commentary on your comings and goings. However, the hutongs have a charming village feel and the communities are generally welcoming. There will be plenty of small shops and restaurants locally for all your amenities, as well as a host of neighbours playing cards or drinking baijiu throughout the day and night. Unfortunately, these quarters are becoming fewer and farther between because of relentless bulldozers and the quest for more and wider thoroughfares. However, if you walk around Qianmen, Houhai, Jiaodaokou or Yonghegong and visit with local residents, you may find your treasure.

Stephen Philips, 23, lived on Shi Hou Jie from September to December 2005.

A shared high-rise apartment

1,600 yuan a month

Chongwenmen

A high-rise apartment is certainly the residence of choice for a majority of Beijing's 15.36 million residents. When Tina arrived in Beijing, her company helped her find a two-bedroom apartment on the fifth floor of a modern complex.

"The place has a good kitchen, bathroom and lounge, and it all came fully furnished. My room has a double bed, a desk and a nice swivel chair. I was surprised at how big it was for the money," she said.

At the cheaper end, some of these places can be rundown and the walls paper thin. The facilities can be troublesome and the building may be a long way from anywhere. However, if you are lucky the place may be fully furnished and come equipped with all the luxuries normally associated with a much more expensive apartment block. Generally, the towers are grouped together in a form of compound, with local amenities springing up around, offering small shops and restaurants within walking distance.

"Unfortunately there is no sense of community in the complex. I haven't even met my neighbours. And the building is quite ugly."

However, these apartments can be great values for money and can be very comfortable places to live. Be sure to factor in the cost of gas, water and electricity, which can mount up during the summer and winter. The landlord will normally require a minimum of three months rent in advance, plus a one-month deposit. There are plenty of these places advertised on Internet forums, by people seeking room-mates and housing agents looking for a commission. Alternatively, post your details and housing requirements in a few places; state what you’re looking for and someone may well find you.

Tina Saddler, 27, lives in Dushi Xinyuan in Chongwenmen.

Duplex apartments

4,000 yuan a month

Gulou Dongdajie

There is a middle ground between roughing it in a hutong and hiding away from street level in a high-rise. Joe Zech moved into one such place with some friends last month.

"I'd already lived in a hutong and in a high-rise and I thought I'd try something different. For me this is the best of both worlds. Our place is right in the middle of town, but as soon as you leave the Gulou Dongdajie it's like a small village."

These developments were generally built in the 70's, before the age of building high, fast and efficiently. They were well-designed and built to last. Some top floor offerings have balconies and roof terraces that are the perfect place to relax on a summer's evening, with 360 degree views of surrounding hutong.

"The flat roof is just about the best thing about the place. Obviously the designers didn’t think of it, but we've got some sofas up there and a barbeque setup for hot summer nights," Zech said.

The apartments generally feature decent facilities, a good kitchen and plenty of space and light. Cover two or more floors, there is a possibility of dividing the space into four bedrooms to save on rent. But, prices vary wildly and foreigners are sometimes taken advantage of by shrewd and unscrupulous landlords. Most blocks are designed around a central courtyard, which makes for a charming community atmosphere similar to that found in the hutong. Their central locations mean that all the local amenities of a typical old Beijing neighbourhood are at your disposal. Some of the best places are around the Houhai area, but, be warned; you certainly won’t be the first laowai on the block.

Joe Zech, 27, lives in the Ju'er Hutong near Gulou Dongdajie.

Luxury apartment

16,000 yuan a month

Chaoyang Park

The super-luxurious high rise market seems to be having a few problems getting off the ground in Beijing.

Jerry Wang, who returned to Beijing about six months ago, said, "Around my complex most of the apartments are dark at night. My suspicion is that no one is renting them. I was shocked at the price of high end housing. I can’t understand why the prices don’t come down with all the oversupply."

The apartments generally come with basic furniture and feature modern and stylish designs.

"By Beijing standards it's not bad but I'm not impressed with the construction. The soundproofing doesn't work well and we can hear all the traffic."

But, since building quality varies so wildly, each place must be inspected thoroughly. Being centrally located, the top floors often have fantastic views of the city through their floor-to-ceiling windows or from their trendy balconies.

"We have a closed balcony that looks out over Chaoyang Park; there are plenty of restaurants to choose from and there's a health club just across the road."

Contracts are negotiable, and these apartments can be rented for as few as three months. There is a service fee that must be taken into consideration. Most real estate agents in the city have a number of available apartments on their books at all times. Or, check Internet or print classified listings.

 Jerry Wang, 38, lives in the Kingda International Apartments next to Chaoyang Park.

Villas

80,000 yuan a month

Shunyi

Villas are favoured by long-term expatriates with families and generous corporate support. Built in areas that were considered "the countryside" just a few years ago, but which now exist on the fringes of an expanding urban metropolis, Chinese developers have sought to recreate Western-style suburban utopias, complete with detached white-washed villas, picket fences, lawns,  three-car driveways and even siheyuan.

"We chose Shunyi for three reasons," said Arthur Chien, co-owner of the Garden of Delights restaurant in Wangfujing. "It's convenient for the airport and the city, it's quieter, has cleaner air, and it's more spacious."

The residents of villas, which are usually located within walled compounds in the suburbs, live lives of luxury that include swimming pools, health centres and military security.

"There are two swimming pools, outdoor and indoor, a kids' room, a restaurant, a bar and a supermarket."

All the international schools are close by, as well as western-style shopping malls and golf courses. The houses are luxurious with plenty of crystal chandeliers and roman pillars; the neighbours are CEOs and diplomats, and the security guards salute as you enter.

"We don't know very many people here, and I'm told other compounds have the same problem with 'community.' My daughter knows some other kids, but generally the kids don't play with each other. I think it depends on the compound."

Generally, each compound has 200 or so villas owned by individuals or companies. A management office takes care of the maintenance and the upkeep of public areas. There are normally extra fees health club and swimming pool memberships, and utility bills can be extremely high.

Arthur Chien, 42, has lived in Dynasty Gardens for almost eight years.