Rural Retreats, See a Different Side of Beijing

In Chinese Opera, there is a special art form where with a quick whip of the head, an actor’s painted face changes colors and design. Audiences are usually left gasping in awe. Visitors to Beijing tend to have a similar reaction when they venture past the Fifth Ring Road. Only about an hour away from the city centre, you can find yourself amidst farmland and trees, fresh air and endless stretches of green mountains and hills, where you will see more birds than people. 
It’s a completely different environment to the hustle and bustle of the Olympic City. Getting out of the city will show you a different side and taste of Beijing. Without flashy signs and chic interiors, you can find many simple eateries that serve the same food that local residents eat. The simplicity of how businesses operate and how the people lead their lives are things to note and to enjoy.


Huairou District

Located northeast of the city, Huairou has a long history, dating from the Tang Dynasty over 1,300 years ago. Its geography of mountains and lakes, natural springs and rich forest, inspired the building of temples and pagodas and attracted village settlers.

In ancient Chinese, the character “Huai” meant “Embrace”, and “Rou” meant “Compatible.” Put together they mean benevolent rule, national unity and mutual development. Huairou was the first county in Beijing to develop rural tourism by investing in road construction and protecting its natural settings. The convenience of access to such a beautiful place outside the city has helped with tourism and the development of an urban centre with 280,000 residents.

Hongluo Temple

Located five kilometres north of Huairou city proper, this site is ranked “4-A” according to the national standard. This means the place is preserved with utmost care and the attention to tourism details are up to par. Hongluo (Red Conch) Temple is to be enjoyed for its beautiful natural scenery. It leans against Hongluo Mountain on its north while overlooking Hongluo Lake to its south. The name was inspired by the legend that there is a conch at the bottom of the lake that, when it turns, radiates rays of red that light up the entire lake area.

The pagoda is largely hidden in a forest of pine trees, as are three scenic spots which surround the temple. These sites are called Imperial Bamboo, Male and Female Gingko, and Pines Wrapped with Chinese Wisteria. Even on busy days, the place is not crowded and conducive for visitors to hike up the steps and sit for a while. It’s a good place to enjoy the scenery, experience a slower pace of life and become contemplative and introspective in the process. 

 

Hongluo Lake Bird Sanctuary

One of the best kept secrets in Beijing surrounds Hongluo Lake, just south of the temple: the Hongluo Lake Bird Sanctuary.

This is an ideal place to bring the entire family. The park-like setting provides wide open spaces and interesting and exotic birds and animals are spread throughout the expanse.

The signs are all only in Chinese, but birdwatchers of any calibre will recognize the commonly known birds, such as sparrows, peacocks, flamingos and vultures (there are six of them), and seek to learn more about the rare birds, such as the coral crown roosters. Besides birds, there are also many other animals to make visitors curious and feel far removed from city life. The park has boats that are available for rent and other recreational activities that help visitors to enjoy themselves.  Birdwatchers will tell you that it’s about watching and listening. Yes, listen. Instead of car horns and people’s voices, you will hear sounds of nature that have never been so audible and so close within reach.

If you feel the park closes too early for all the things you still want to do there, consider renting a room in the hostel right by the lake. You can also enjoy the farm fresh food that they grow themselves, and you can even help to pick the fruit and vegetables. Rural tourism at its best.

 

Yanqi Lake

It tells you something about Huairou when most location’s names are auspiciously inspired. Yanqi Lake in Chinese means: “Swans dwell on lake.” The swans are still there today.

What you will also find in this recreational area eight kilometres from downtown Huairou is a beautiful spot perfect for water sports of all kinds. Situated at the foot of Yanshan Mountain, the lake is bounded to north and south by the Great Wall. From the Yanqi Lake vantage point, visitors have a magnificent view of the boundless North China plain.

Come here for the view, but also for the variety of aquatic recreation activities, such as motorized dragon boats, speedboats, rowing boats, pedalos, jet skiing, arrow shooting and bungee jumping. Tourists can parachute over the lake and the whole family can enjoy the simple amusement park rides, water slides, bumper cars and merry-go-around.

 

Getting to Huairou

From Dongzhimen bus depot (walk east from the Dongzhimen subway stop, follow the people carrying luggage) you can take bus No. 916 to Huairou County Town. From there, buses, minibuses and private taxis run to all the attractions around the county.

 

Huairou Travel Notes

•      Don’t expect to find much western food; Food will mainly be Chinese home-style cooking; People come here specifically for the fresh rainbow trout and the fresh produce. Steamed trout and grilled fish are local favorites. 

•      Huairou is close enough to make it a day trip. But if you would like to stay longer, the lodging options are many, inexpensive and mostly rustic, as it should be in the mountains. You may even stay with local families who will include cooking and tour guiding in your lodging fee.

•      Things you should definitely do and eat: Ride a horse to the edge of the Great Wall; be inspired by the view of the valley from Hongluo Temple; eat freshly picked roasted or steamed corn; eat chestnuts or dishes with chestnuts grown locally; fish for your own rainbow trout, and ask the chef to cook it your way; look for the white peacock in the bird sanctuary and see how he shows off for the flashing cameras; take many photos of yourself relaxing in, yes, Beijing.

Changping District

Juyongguan Pass

This completely restored section of the Great Wall is the easiest and quickest section to reach from Central Beijing. The massive gate in the wall announces Juyongguan as the “First Pass Under Heaven.”

 

Ming Tombs

A World Heritage Site and burial ground for 13 emperors and 23 empresses of the Ming Dynasty. Also see page 20.

 

Yinshan Silver Pagoda Forest

Five pagodas in this lovely park date from the Jin Dynasty (1115-1234), making them some of the oldest structures anywhere in Beijing. They were once part of a great Buddhist temple; now they make a nice picnic spot and the mountain itself offers a decent hour’s hike and splendid views.

 

China Aviation Museum

Not just the biggest in China, but the biggest such museum anywhere in Asia. More than 200 aircraft are on display, plus hundreds of examples of aerial weaponry.

Perhaps the most interesting exhibit is that devoted to China’s first aviator, Feng Ru. There is a reproduction of his plane, which he built and flew just six years after the Wright brothers historic first flight. Feng died not long afterwards when his plane crashed during an exhibition in Guangzhou in 1912.

 

North China International Shooting Range

Rid yourself of urban aggression with a choice of handguns, rifles and a double-barreled shotgun for skeet shooting. There is also a paintballing area if you fancy shooting at live targets. Note that they charge by the bullet, so a day at the range can quickly get expensive.

Address: Nankou Zhen, Changping District

北方国际射击场昌平区南口镇  

Open: 8:30 a.m.–4:30 p.m.

How to get there: Take bus 919 from Deshengmen to Nankou, from where it’s a short taxi or minibus ride to the shooting range.

Mentougou District

Jietai Temple

Located at the foot of the Ma’an Mountain, the Jietai Temple is known for its ordination altar, ancient caves, and rare pines. Once called the Huiju Temple, it is now named after its famed Ming Dynasty (1368–1644) ordination altar. Built entirely of marble, the altar stands five metres high and has a history of around 1,300 years. Amazingly, its decorations and carvings are still around today. Surrounding the base stand several hundred warrior-like deities, some of them a metre high. The altar is also decorated with intricate carvings of monks, monsters, and saints. Although Jietaisi gets its name from this ordination altar, the ancient caves and pine trees are also worth looking at. The pine trees especially, are some of the most rare and interesting trees you will ever encounter. The Nine-Dragon Pine gets its name from the nine branches that twist up toward the sky like dragons, while the Mobile Pine is so delicate that even the smallest movement from a single branch causes the entire tree to shake. Whether you are here for the altar or the pines, the Jietai Temple is definitely worth a visit. Also, think of it as a two for one deal; the Tanzhe Temple lies only eight kilometres away.

Address: South of Ma’anshan, Mentougou Distirct

门头沟区马鞍山麓

How to get there: No. 335 bus from Fuchengmen or take No. 931 bus from Pingguoyuan

Open: 8 a.m.-5:30 p.m.

Admission: 35 yuan

Tanzhe Temple

An old saying goes: “First there was the Tanzhe Temple, then came Beijing.” First built in the Jin Dynasty (AD 265–420), the history of this temple dates back to over 1,600 years ago. Also known as the Pool and Mulberry Temple, it is famous for the clear Dragon Pool located in the back and the rare three-bristle cudranias growing among the hills. Although the temple was constructed in the Jin Dynasty, most of the existing buildings are from the more recent Ming and Qing dynasties. Divided into three parts, the temple design is simple and elegant with various pavilions, prayer halls, and pagodas. Set amongst ideal natural surroundings, it was once the home of Buddhist monks and nuns. Now, the pagoda tombs provide evidence of the many monks who practiced Buddhism at Tanzhe Temple.

 

Mt. Ling

Rising 2,300 metres, Mt. Ling is often referred to as Beijing’s Mt. Everest. Its endless area of alpine meadow also makes it a perfect habitat for various animals and plants. Here, you have the chance of observing more than 800 varieties of plants and 700 different species of animals, all active in 340 hectares of woodland. The alpine meadow at an elevation of over 1,900 metres is primarily noteworthy in that it is the only farm in Beijing for yak, Xinjiang fine wool sheep, and the Yili horse. Fortunately for you, this beautiful area is the most entertaining during the months of July and August. During this time, the mountain hosts a Tibetan folklore festival and uses various resources to display Tibetan life. You can enjoy singing along to Tibetan style songs while watching them perform their culture’s dances. You may also try out their original delicacies and buy some traditional craftwork.

 

Mt. Baihua Nature Reserve

Mt. Baihua’s stunning natural scenery attracts travelers from all over the world. Over 1,100 different plants and 170 different animals span this vast expanse of greenery, located about 110 kilometres west of Central Beijing. Due to multiple geological movements, the varied topography and geologic characteristics also contribute to Baihua’s beauty. However, the large quantities of flowers usually make the greatest impression on viewers.

The name, Baihua, means "hundreds of flowers." These flowers all bloom at different times due to the temperature inconsistencies that come with elevation changes. Along with flowers, Mt. Baihua Mountain also boasts streams flowing in every valley and a grand waterfall that stands 150 metres high and 15 metres wide. Better yet, the average temperature of this heavenly place is 22 degrees Celsius, 6 degrees lower than the average downtown. During the summer, many tourists find this a very pleasant place to relax or hike, especially on a hot sweltering day.

 

Miaofeng Shan

Mt. Miaofeng, rising to more than 1,300 meters above sea level, is the tallest peak in the northern range of Beijing's Western Hills. The mountain’s sheer cliffs, jutting crags, and tortuous paths appeal to hikers from all around the world. Not only does the scenery but also the cultural background makes Miaofeng Mountain one of the most renowned scenic spots in northern China. Towards the end of the Ming Dynasty, people from all over North China would make a pilgrimage to Miaofeng every year during the fourth month of the lunar calendar. During this time, they would attend the temple fairs and pay tribute to the many deities. Some of the temples such as the Temple of the God of Mount Tai and the Temple of Niangniang are still standing today.

 

Xiaolongmen National Forest Park

At the foot of Mt. Ling lies the Xiaolongmen National Forest Park. Both a natural zoo and a botanical garden, it accommodates more than 700 animal species and 800 varieties of plants. The rich forest and agreeable climate make Xiaolongmen a popular spot to visit during the summer due to its cooler weather. Because of its superb ecological environment, the park is also a great place for scientists to conduct their research. Exhibiting lofty mountains, oddly shaped rocks, and lavish forests, this park provides a pleasurable atmosphere for those who still want to explore Beijing, but are too tired to do anything rigorous. Accommodation here is very convenient and a plethora of activities is made available for those families who wish to stay overnight. While at Xiaolongmen, visitors are encouraged to sample a countryside diet and participate in activities such as karaoke, table tennis, and chess.

 

Miyun County
 

Heilongtan (Black Dragon Pool)

In a valley 220 metres deep and four kilometres long, Heilongtan is a very popular summer resort. With three waterfalls and 18 pools, this scenic area attracts city dwellers who yearn to escape from their crowded and hectic lives. Legend has it that there once lived two brother dragons who grew up together but soon had reason to part. The black dragon, being both virtuous and humble, decided to give up his home and went to reside in a grassless and waterless place. There, he strove hard to build a new home, which soon drew the attention of the gods. Because of his long and arduous work, the gods awarded him with 18 pearls. These pearls then became the 18 ponds after the dragon scattered them throughout the valley. Heilongtan epitomizes the ideal of a peaceful getaway.

Address:  Daguan  Bridge,  Shicheng  Zhen,  Miyun  County      

北京市密云县石城镇大关桥

How to get there: Take  the No. 980, 987, 970 bus from Dongzhimen to Miyun County  then change  for a minibus to Heilongtan.

Open: 8 a.m.–6 p.m.

Admission: 35 yuan

Jiudaowan Canyon

Facing the Yunmengshan National Forest Park in the west and the Miyun Reservoir in the east lies the largest canyon in Miyun County. Some 6.6 kilometres long and 900 metres deep, the canyon offers 78 tourist attractions; including a lake, 15 waterfalls, and 18 pools. All naturally formed, these sites enthrall visitors with their infinite variety of shapes. Jiudaowan is known best, however, for its three “peculiars,” scattered through the canyon as it zigzags through the mountains. One is a giant stone which resembles a frog on one side but looks more like a tortoise on the other; the second is a giant “footprint” about five metres long stamped into a sheer rock wall; the third and last is an extremely cold cave at the end of a winding path. Even during summer, this cave will leave you shivering. Jiudaowan Canyon is a great place to visit, especially during the summer. While enjoying the beautiful scenery, you may also boat, swim, and even fish.

 

Qingliang Valley

Qingliang Valley appeals to those aching to get away from the hot, sweltering, summer days. Not only does Qingliang have a cornucopia of crystal-clear pools and towering waterfalls, but it also is fortunate enough to have the Baihe River run across throughout the year, adding more vigour and liveliness to the valley. With its lofty mountains, clear pools, evergreen woods, and stunning peaks, this valley really illustrates a perfect painting of nature. Located five kilometres from the entrance, the water from the Pearl Waterfall cascades down from a high cliff and resembles a dazzling curtain of pearls. Although you have to pay an extra 16 yuan to see this sight, it is worth a visit, especially to get a glimpse of the cave hidden behind. Qingliang Valley is also a natural water park featuring activities such as bamboo rafting.

 

Taoyuan Xiangu Scenic Area

Situated at the foot of Yunmengshan National Forest Park, Taoyuan Xiangu provides a landscape of imposing mountains, steep peaks, rising waterfalls, deep pools, colorful flowers, and dense trees. Divided into two areas, the Taoyuan Xianhu Lake is similar to the Qingliang Valley. Visitors may take part in activities such as swimming, angling and paddling. The second area is the Taoyuan Pavilion. An ideal place to take a short rest, visitors who reach this are presented with a panoramic view of the entire scenic area. A section of the Great Wall to the east and the splendid Taoyuan Xianpu Waterfall to the west are among the many scenic views that this area offers. Taoyuan Xiangu is a great place for a summer vacation. Besides the many sports aforementioned, you can pick peaches, grapes, and even kiwi fruit.

 

No.1 Waterfall in Beijing

The No.1 Waterfall, some four kilometres from the Black Dragon Pool, has a drop of 62.5 metres. The roaring sound of the waterfall is so loud you will definitely hear it before you see it. Several smaller waterfalls are also found here. The most unique sight is a series of six pools of differing sizes and depths (Liu Tan Lian Zhu).
Address: Inside Shichengxiang, four kilometers north of  Miyun Reservoir, Miyun County

密云县密云水库以北4公里石城乡境内

How to get there: Take the long-distance bus from Dongzhimen to Miyun, then change for the Sihetang bus and get off at Zhangjia Village.

Open: 24 hours

Admission: 31 yuan (including insurance: 1 yuan)

Yanqing County

The Great Wall at Badaling

Badaling is the most visited section of the Great Wall. Being the first portion of the wall opened to tourists in 1957, this easy-to-reach area attracts both climbers looking for a challenge and those wanting to experience the atmosphere that accompanies this phenomenon. However, because it is only a bus ride on 919 from Deshengmen away, you will rarely find fewer than a hundred people climbing Badaling. Even so, the best-preserved section of the Great Wall is well worth the visit. And if you reach the top but are too tired to trek back down, a fun toboggan ride is available for your convenience and amusement.

 

Guyaju Ruins

A mystery in itself, the Guyaju Ruins is one of Yanqing’s strangest attractions. These ancient cave dwellings continue to puzzle archaeologists who question who built them, why and how. However, even if you aren’t interested in searching for those answers, you will still appreciate this endearing enigma. With 170 caves and more than 350 rooms, the Guyaju Ruins are fascinating to all ages. The two-story buildings are connected by stone stairs, steps, and ladders, along with rooms distinctly designated as kitchens, living rooms, and even stables for horses.

 

Longqing Gorge

About an hour’s drive from the capital, Longqing Gorge exemplifies the illustrious mountains that characterize suburban Beijing. It is one of Beijing’s top 16 tourist sites. Its main attractions include the Baihua Cave and the Jingang temple. These, along with many other sites, surround a clear, emerald green lake flanked by steep cliffs. At the entrance towers the largest dam in North China (it is 70 metres high). In order to reach this dam and see the man-made waterfall that plummets down behind it, you will need to take a long, dragon shaped elevator that carries you to the top. It takes about three hours to view all the scenic spots along the lake so you should definitely make this trip, especially during the day. There are also many activities for your entertainment if you are willing to spend more than the 40 yuan admission fee. Sports such as bungee jumping, rock-climbing, and riding down a steel cable cater to those travelers looking for a few thrills.

 

Kangxi Grassland

Situated between Haituo Mountain and Guanting Reservoir, and covering over 5,000 acres, Kangxi is Beijing’s largest grassland. Home to over 50 different plant species, 20 birds and 10 wild animals, it epitomizes nature’s ability to thrive alone. Visitors can participate in numerous activities such as camel riding, boating, and fishing. Horse riding, however, is the most popular. With the biggest racecourse in China and a standard track as well, professional and amateur riders alike are welcome to saddle up on one of the many sturdy horses offered. At night, you can attend a bonfire near Mongolian style yurts and enjoy a barbeque while listening to their traditional songs. Delectable Mongolian foods including roast goat and rabbit, kumiss, and milk fruits are also made available for you to taste.

 

Petrified Wood National Geologic Park

Petrified wood, literally interpreted as wood turned into stone, is a type of fossil. Having the ability to preserve even the minutest details from the wood’s original structure, this type of wood aids those who wish to analyze a location’s past geography and climate. Protected by the government, the Petrified Wood National Geologic Park already contains 57 different kinds of these fossil woods. This national park also includes many districts such as the Small Kunlun Geological Popular Science District, Central District of Geological Park, and Datan Ecological Model District. Within these districts, the types of petrified wood found range from 0.5 metres to 2.5 metres in diameter, with the longest piece stretching 15 metres. If you wish to take a nice stroll through the peaceful scenery while also noting these unique fossils scattered throughout, then this park is for you.

 

Badaling Safari World

Located at the foot of Badaling Great Wall, Badaling Safari World is the largest zoo in China. Occupying the 4,200 square kilometres of natural land are wild animals from various parts of the world. African lions, Siberian tigers, brown bears, pandas, and even black swans are only a few among many different species inhabiting this region. However, Badaling Safari World is not your typical zoo in China. Not only do you get the chance to see these wild animals prowl around in their natural surroundings, but you also get a proper education as staff members teach you how they care for and breed the animals. Divided into four sections (wild animal exhibition; mountain forest sightseeing; ancient culture; and entertainment), this park is a great place for kids to learn as it allows them to feed the carnivorous beasts and have close interactions with the milder animals.

 

Southern Suburbs

Home of the Peking Man

On December 2, 1929, paleoanthropologist Pei Wenzhong found a skullcap fossil at Zhoukoudian in Fangshan District, confirming this site in southwest Beijing as home to what is believed to have been the earliest human beings in China, who lived some 700,000–500,000 years ago. This place is now a museum and an open excavation site used to learn more about the human race. Since the 1920’s, the site has provided a fertile ground for researchers as discoveries of human and animal fossils continue to appear. This is a good opportunity for tourists to follow the footprints of the Peking Man and to explore the primitive life of our human ancestors.

The complete Peking Man skull found by Pei is one of the world’s most important archaeological discoveries. However, prepare yourself for disappointment: when you visit the museum, you will not see the actual archeology wonder. During the War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression in the 1930’s, the skull mysteriously disappeared along with other Chinese treasures. Its whereabouts remain unknown.

Zhoukoudian is a good place to bring the entire family during your visit in Beijing.  In addition to the ruins and museum, visitors can see the Peking Man site, the Upper Cave Man site, the New Cave Man site, the Apeman Hole and Upper Cave all situated around Dragon Bone Hill. This is where visitors can learn about the scientific study of ancient human beings. In 1961, the Peking Man site was listed as one of the First Key National Cultural Protection Sites by the State Council. The site was inscribed onto the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1987.

 

Award Winning Watermelons

To some, the watermelon is a symbolic fruit of summer. To the residents of Daxing, it is a symbol of pride and a claim to fame. Daxing District supplies the watermelon that you find all over Beijing and northern China. The fertile soil and climate have produced award-winning melons for many years. Recently, a farmer auctioned a prize-winning 120-kg watermelon for 1 million yuan (US$670,000).

For everything watermelon-related, visit Daxing’s unique Watermelon Museum. You can also pick a melon in fields belonging to one of the area’s most famous farmers, Lao Song.

How to get there: Buses 366, 901, 410, 937, 957 and 962 go from Central Beijing directly to Daxing. Take a taxi to Panggezhuang Village and the Watermelon Museum.

Daxing Tourism Office

Address: No.118-2 Xingfeng St. Daxing District

Tel: +86 10 6925 6060, 6926 8080

E-mail: daxing@bjta.gov.cn

World Park

One of the biggest theme parks in Asia, this contains 106 of the most famous sites from 50 countries and regions of the world, all built in miniature to a scale of 1:10. 

You will recognize most of the spots of interest around the globe. Among the mini marvels are the Leaning Tower of Pisa, the Pharaohs of Alexandria and the Eiffel Tower in Paris.

The builders have made great efforts to construct the park using the same materials as the originals. The Pyramid is made out of 200,000 white marble bricks, each as large as a bar of soap, and Moscow’s Red Square is paved with more than five million red bricks smaller than mah jong tiles.

The lawns in the park are dotted with 100 well-known sculptures, among them the Statue of Liberty, the Little Mermaid from Copenhagan, Michelangelo’s David and the Venus de Milo.

The park also has a fountain operated by laser beams, a plant maze and a fairyland in which children and adults alike can enjoy themselves. During the Olympics, there will be many festivities and special themed days.

Address:  158 Fengbao Lu, Huaxiang Zhen, Fengtai District

世界公园丰台区花乡镇丰菢路158号

Open: 9 a.m.– p.m.

Admission: 65 yuan (adults), 35 yuan (children)

How to get there: Bus 905 or there is a special bus No. 7 that goes from Qianmen via Changchunjie and Liuliqiao.