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50 Things to Do in Beijing2008/08/01 13:00:00 US/Central
This is the month Located in the very centre of In 1972, a group of architectural experts counted 8,707 rooms in the The Construction of the Walk the Longest Gallery in the World at the The There are more than 14,000 paintings on the beams of the 728-metre Long Corridor, lying along the southern slope of Longevity Hill ( Address: 19 Xinjian Gongmen, Haidian District 海淀区新建宫门19号 Open: 6: Admission: 30 yuan (gate ticket), 60 yuan (all-inclusive ticket) How to get there: Take Subway Line 13 and get off at Wudaokou Station, then take a taxi for about 25 yuan. Enjoy Morning Exercises at the The enormous Temple of Heaven Park attracts crowds of locals every morning to exercise and socialize. This is the best place to see a wide-range of traditional activities, from taiqi and swordplay to amateur Peking Opera performances. And that’s before any of the tourist attractions open. The Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests is the magnificent centerpiece of the The Address: A1 Tiantan Beilu, Chongwen District 崇文区天坛北路甲1号. The Tiantan Dongmen Subway Station is at the East Gate of the park Open: Admission: 15 yuan Spoil Yourself with a Spa by the Great Wall Designed on three levels, the 1,000-square-metre Anantara Spa is an extension of the Commune by the Great Wall Kempinski. It offers 15 luxurious spa suites with a choice of single and double occupancy, a full service beauty salon and a rooftop yoga deck where yoga sessions are offered complete with stunning views of the Great Wall. The Great Wall of China is a true wonder of the world and an absolute must-see for any visitor to Commune by the Great Wall Kempinski Address: The Great Wall Exit 20 at Shuiguan, WWW: http://www.commune.com.cn/en Other tourist sections of the Wall include: Badaling Address: Yanqing Open: 7:30 a.m.–5 p.m. Admission: 45 yuan How to get there: Take 919 from Deshengmen Long Distance Bus Station, 500 metres east of Jishuitan Subway Station. Buses depart every half hour from 5:50 a.m. and return from Badaling until 6:30 p.m. The trip takes one–two hours. Or, rent a car a make a day of it. Mutianyu Address: Mutianyucun, Huairou District 怀柔区慕田峪村 Open: 7:30 a.m.–6 p.m. Admission: 40 yuan How to get there: Take 916 from Dongzhimen Long Distance Bus Station (100 metres east of Dongzhimen Subway Station Exit D, then walk 150 metres to the left). Buses depart from 5:20 a.m. and return until 6:30 p.m. The trip takes two–three hours. Simatai Address: Gubeikouzhen, Miyun County 密云县司马台古北口镇 Open: 8 a.m.–5 p.m. Admission: 40 yuan How to get there: Take 980 from Dongzhimen Long Distance Bus Station (100 metres east of Dongzhimen Subway Station Exit D, then walk 150 metres to the left). Buses depart from 6 a.m. and return until 7 p.m. The trip takes two to three hours. Cycle to the Ming Tombs Take a break from the hustle and bustle of the city by renting a bicycle and heading for this World Heritage burial site. The Ming Tombs, located in a picturesque valley of rolling hills and orchards north of urban Beijing, were built by the Ming emperors in an attempt to smooth their passage into the afterlife. Thirteen emperors, 23 empresses, and many imperial concubines, princes and princesses were buried in the tombs in simple but stately chambers. The Sacred Way is a seven-kilometre road showing the way to the burial complex. Sculpted “guards” in the form of 12 stone animals line the road. Route by bike: Deshengmen–Badaling Expressway (Sideroad)–Shahe–Changping–Ming Tombs Reservoir Open: 8 a.m.–5 p.m. Admission: Changling Tomb: 45 yuan; Dingling Tomb: 65 yuan; Zhaoling Tomb: 30 yuan; Sacred Path: 30 yuan Address: South of Tianshoushan, 50 km northwest of Beijing, Changping District 昌平区天寿山南 The suburban district of Zhoukoudian became world famous after the discovery of a 500,000-year-old human skull on December 2, 1929. The caves on Dragon Bone Hill where the remains of “Peking Man” were found were recognized as a World Heritage List site by the United Nations in 1987. Unearthed fossil remains in Zhoukoudian include six skulls, 15 jaw bones, 157 teeth and countless fragmented bones belonging to 40 individuals. These finds continue to be useful for the study of the early biological evolution of human beings and the development of early culture. Unfortunately, five of the precious skulls have been lost since 1941; despite all kinds of rumours, their whereabouts are still unknown. Open: 8:30 a.m.–4 p.m. Admission: 30 yuan Address: 1 Zhoukoudian Dajie, Fangshan District 房山区周口店大街1号 How to get there: 917 from Tianqiao to Fangshan, or 616 at Beijing West Railway Station to Liangxiang, then change to Zhoukoudian. In 2001, Kunqu Opera was listed as a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity. This ancient opera style originated in Jiangsu Province about 600 years ago and is often referred to as the mother of all Chinese operas. On the verge of extinction until very recently, interest in Kunqu has been revived by a number of performances of the Ming Dynasty classic The Peony Pavilion. An abridged and highly accessible version can be seen nightly in the lovely theatre at the Imperial Granary, a series of recently renovated grain stores originally constructed in 1409. Before the show starts, audiences can enjoy an excellent buffet in the Music Room next door. Director Lin Zhaohua said: “In ancient times, Kunqu opera troupes would usually be raised by wealthy families, and performed just in their residences. Therefore, I think the idea of performing such an ancient art in ancient architecture is quite appropriate.” Performances begin at 7:30 p.m. The Imperial Granary Tel: +86 10 6409 6477, 6409 6499, 6409 6628 Tickets: 380; 580; 780; 980; 1,980; 12,000 yuan Address: 22 Dongsishitiao, Chaoyang District 南新仓朝阳区东四十条22号 Beijing Flavours Billowing red lanterns, traditional courtyards and more than 100 Sichuan, Shandong, Guangdong and Hunan restaurants stretch east–west down the city’s most famous gourmet street from the Dongzhimen overpass to Jiaodaokou Dongdajie. Many of Beijing’s most beloved dishes owe their origins to Guijie: be it mutton hotpot, meat skewers, scorpions, roast fish with chili sauce, stinky tofu or duck. But arguably the most Beijing-in-the-summer of them all are these spicy little things washed down with inexpensive Yanjing beer. To really get down with the locals, don’t forget to suck every last bit of meat out of the pincers. How to get there: Get off subway Line 2 at Dongzhimen Station and you will find yourself at the east end of the street. Get off subway Line 5 at Beixinqiao Station to come from the west end. Dig into Peking Duck Essential to your Beijing dining experience is a taste of the famous Peking roast duck. At the high-class establishments, a chef typically slices the duck up for you next to your table. Eat Vegetables in a Temple Where better to feast on vegetarian cuisine than in the grounds of a Buddhist temple? These restaurants are located in two of Beijing’s most historic temples. Wutasi was first built between 1403 and 1424 during the Ming Dynasty, while the massive white dagoba at Baitasi is one of the city’s very few relics of the Mongol Yuan Dynasty, built by a Nepalese architect in 1271. The rest of the temple burned down in 1729 and was subsequently rebuilt during the reign of Emperor Qianlong. Slurp a Bowl of Zhajiangmian Zhajiangmian is the most famous traditional food in Beijing. It’s commonly made by Beijingers in their own homes, but if you can’t swing an invitation, this restaurant specializes in this simple but historic noodle dish. Thick flour noodles are boiled by themselves, and then raw vegetables and a thick meaty sauce are stirred in. The sauce is the real key to this meal: some old Beijingers guard their family recipes jealously. This restaurant also serves up a feast of old Beijing characteristics, from the screeched greetings at the door to traditional snacks and even Peking Opera performances by local amateurs. Step Back in Time to the Cultural Revolution Join crowds of mostly older Beijingers indulging in a certain nostalgia for the days of the Cultural Revolution (1966–76). Dishes are mostly very basic—appropriate to a time of almost universal shortage—while the decor recalls the unique period between 1966 and the late Chairman Mao’s death in 1976. Performances of songs and dances from the period make for a very lively evening. Take Time for Tea Before the rise of modern communications, the teahouse was one of the main venues in Beijing for exchanging news and enjoying entertainment. Although the teahouse is no longer what it was, it’s still possible to get a taste of the old days through the traditional snacks, tea and cultural performances at the Laoshe Tea House. Named after the writer Lao She and his great play Tea House, this has been a popular place to watch performances of Chinese folk arts and drama since 1988. Shows run every evening. Scoff a scorpion at the Donghuamen Night Market The street running west from Wangfujing to the East Gate of the Forbidden City comes alive at sunset every day. A vast array of foods from every corner of China is on offer at a row of stalls that stretches as far as the eye can see. From humble noodles and dumplings to exotic kebabs of bugs, snakes and scorpions, this night market really does have something for everyone. As night falls, the street fills with alluring odours and the sound of satisfied feeding. Don’t get carried away at the start:buy small portions and try as many things as you can. Plenty of unusual traditional Beijing fare is available, such as guanchang, miancha (a paste made of millet or sorghum flour), or douzhi’er (soy bean milk). Peking Duck Quanjude Roast Duck Restaurant The most famous, if not necessarily the best. Tel: +86 10 6511 2418 Address: 32 Qianmen Dajie, Chongwen District 崇文区前门大街32号 Bianyifang Roast Duck Restaurant Allegedly the oldest purveyor in town, though like Quanjude it has now expanded into a chain operator. Tel: +86 106712 0505 Address: 2A Chongwenmenwai Dajie, Chongwen District 崇文区崇外大街甲2号 Dadong Peking Duck Bookings essential at this flashy and expensive outlet. The duck is worth it, though! Tel: +86 106582 4003 Address: Building 3, Tuanjiehu Beikou, Chaoyang District 朝阳区团结湖北口3号楼 Made in China Despite the hotel location, one of the very best ducks in town. Tel: +86 10 6510 9608 Address: First floor, Grand Hyatt Hotel, Oriental Plaza, 1A Dong Chang’an Jie 东长安街1号东方广场北京东方君悦大酒店一层 King Roast Duck A cheaper but very popular chain option. Tel: +86 106515 6908 Address: 24 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街24号 Liqun Roast Duck Restaurant A small hutong establishment run by a former chef at Quanjude. Bookings essential. Tel: +86 106705 5578 Address: 11 Beixiangfeng, Zhengyi Lu Nankou, Dongcheng District 东城区正义路南口北翔凤胡同11号 Temple Kitchen Wutas Tel: +86 10 6218 8038 Address: 24 Zhongguancun Nandajie 五塔寺 中关村南大街24号 Baitasi Tel: +86 10 6617 1119 Address: 171 Fuchengmen Neidajie 白塔寺 阜成门内大街171号 Zhajiangmian Yiwanju Ancient Beijing Zhajiangmian Restaurant Tel: +86 10 6765 4321, 6766 6667 Address: 24-1 Fangzhuang Pufang Lu, Fengtai District 丰台区方庄蒲芳路24-1号 Cultural Revolution Red Classics Theme Restaurant Tel: +86 10 6574 8289 Address: 266 Baijialou, Dong Wuhuan Wai, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东五环外白家楼266号 Tea Laoshe Tea House Tel: +86 10 6303 6830 Address: Building 3, Zhengyang Market, Qianmen Xidajie, Xuanwu District 宣武区前门西大街正阳市场3号楼 Donghuamen Night Market Address: West of the intersection of Wangfujing and Jinyu Hutong, Dongcheng District 地址: 北京市东城区王府井东华门 Artistic representations of Chinese acrobatics performances have been found dating back more than 2,000 years to the Han Dynasty (206 BC–AD 220). These ancient skills still thrive all over the country, with provincial troupes competing every year for national honours and the right to represent China by touring abroad with the Chinese State Circus. Some of the very best young acrobats can be seen nightly in the capital. Tianqiao Acrobatic Theatre 天桥杂技剧场 Tel: +86 10 6303 7449 Time: 5:30–8:45 p.m. Tickets: 180; 280; 380 yuan Address: East Beiwei Lu, Xuanwu District 宣武区北纬路东口 Tiandi Theatre 天地剧场 Tel: +86 10 6502 3984 Time: 7:15–8:40 p.m. Tickets: 180; 280; 380; 480 yuan Address: Intersection of Dongsishitiao, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东四十条立交桥 Kick Back at a Kung Fu Show Be amazed by the physical skills and discipline of this group of kung fu masters. Kung fu and wushu are popular terms that have become synonymous with Chinese martial arts. However, the term kung fu, or gongfu in Mandarin Chinese, can also be used with reference to any individual accomplishment or cultivated skill. In contrast, wushu is a more precise term that refers to general martial activities. It has also become the name for a modern sport adapted from Chinese styles of armed and unarmed combat. It will be among the events at the Olympic Games for the first time this month. The Red Theatre 红剧场 Address: 44 Xingfu Dajie, Chongwen District 崇文区幸福大街44号 Tel: +86 10 6714 2473 Time: 7:30–8:50 p.m. Tickets: 180; 280; 380; 680 yuan (regular prices); 280; 380; 580; 880 (Olympic prices) Peking Opera is a form of traditional Chinese opera which combines music, vocal performance, mime, dance and acrobatics. It arose in the late 18th century and became fully developed and recognized as a distinctive art form by the mid-19th century. With their elaborate and colourful costumes, performers are the only focal points on Peking Opera’s characteristically sparse stage. They utilize the skills of speech, song, dance, and combat in movements that are symbolic and suggestive, rather than realistic. Above all else, the skill of performers is evaluated according to the beauty of their movements. Performers also adhere to a variety of stylistic conventions that help audiences navigate the plot of the production. In recent years, Peking Opera has attempted numerous reforms in response to sagging audience numbers. These reforms, include improving performance quality, adapting new performance elements, and performing new and original plays. Beijing Huguang Guildhall 湖广会馆 Address: 3 Hufangqiao, Xuanwu District 宣武区虎坊桥3号 Tel: +86 10 6351 8284 Time: 7:30 p.m.–8:40 p.m. Tickets: 180; 280; 380; 680 yuan Chang’an Grand Theatre 长安大戏院 Address: 7 Jianguomen Neidajie, Dongcheng District 东城区建国门内大街7号 Tel: +86 10 6510 1155 Time: 7:30 p.m.–9:30 p.m. Tickets: 80–300 yuan Liyuan Theatre 梨园剧场 Address: 175 Yong’an Lu, Qianmen Hotel, Xuanwu District 宣武区永安路175号前门饭店内 Tel: +86 10 6301 6688, ext. 8860 Time: 7:30 p.m.–8:40 p.m. Tickets: 40–280 yuan Live Like A Beijinger The Eastern touch goes a long way to easing migraine, headaches, chronic neck and back pain, stress and tension-related problems. Some massage establishments specialize in foot treatments, others go for an all-body approach. Some of the best are staffed entirely by blind practitioners. For drinkers, the Dragonfly hangover relief massage not only relieves headaches but also stimulates the immune system and helps detoxify the body. For a touch of decadence, try “Double Trouble,” an aroma oil massage delivered by the four gentle hands of two therapists. Dragonfly @ the Forbidden City Open: 11 a.m.–1 a.m. Tel: + 86 10 6527 9368 Address: 60 Donghuamen Jie, Dongcheng District 东城区东华门60号 Dragonfly @ Sanlitun Open: 11 a.m.–1 a.m. Tel: + 86 10 6593 6066 Address: Sanlitun Nanlu, Ground Floor of Eastern Inn, Chaoyang District 朝阳区南三里屯路逸羽酒店一层 Dragonfly @ Yan Sha Open: 11 a.m.–1 a.m. Tel: + 86 10 8532 3122 Address: Ground Floor, Grand Summit Plaza, 19 Dongfang Donglu, Liangmaqiao, Chaoyang District (100 metres north of Lufthansa Centre and the Kempinski Hotel) 北京朝阳区燕莎桥东方东路19号外交会所一层（燕莎中心北100米） Arrange a Marriage at Purple Bamboo Park One of the city’s seven largest parks, Purple Bamboo Park (Zizhuyuan) consists of five bridges and three connecting lakes. The Temple of Longevity (Wanshousi) once stood northwest of the lakes. Here the Qing rulers built a lodging palace where they and their retinues could rest as they floated to the Summer Palace or the Jade Spring Mountain on the Changhe River. Before getting to Magpie Bridge early on a Sunday morning, know the correct etiquette: boys’ parents take the initiative, move around and give lengthy introductions to their sons. Parents of girls move relatively less, giving only a demure introduction to their daughters. If both sides like what they hear, they exchange telephone numbers. Open: 6 a.m.–9 p.m. Tel: +86 10 6842 0055 Address: 45 Baishiqiao, Haidian 紫竹院公园, 海淀区白石桥45号 Admission: 5 yuan Many Chinese like to memorialize the big day by taking a trip to Chaoyang Park’s southeast corner for a full photo-album shoot. The presence of brides and grooms wandering all around the trees and canals adds a certain surreal charm to a stroll in this enormous park in the east of the city. The park itself has plenty of wide open spaces for kite-flying, basketball, volleyball, soccer, table tennis and tennis. Children can paddle, row or captain a boat on the lake. The adults might like the sky swings and roller coaster. Open: 6 a.m.–9 p.m. Tel: +86 10 6506 5409, 6591 5258 Admission: Adults 5 yuan, Children 2.5 yuan Address: 1 Nongzhan Nanlu, Chaoyang District 朝阳公园, 朝阳区农展南路1号 Bargain Like a Local Beijing people love a bargain, and they will sometimes spend a lot of time and energy in order to get one. Especially in markets, don’t take anything at face value. Walk away, look elsewhere, compare prices, tben make a ludicrously low offer. And once you’ve made your purchase, be happy! If you’re not, then you paid too much and it’s no use blaming the sales person. They won’t sell if the price isn’t right, so a proper bargain should make everyone happy. Where: Absolutely anywhere except for supermarkets and chain stores. It’s always worth asking if you can have something cheaper; that’s what the locals do! Learn Chinese Drinking Games in Sanlitun There’s a drinking game for every occasion at Beijing’s best bars. Whether sticking a playing card on your forehead, rolling a dice or impersonating a bee, the secret is to gather a group of friends on comfy sofas and purchase large quantities of cheap “white spirits.” A rack of a dozen shooters at Huxley’s new bar costs 100 yuan, with 44 choices. The drinks board advertises 10 yuan shooters, 20 yuan standard mixers and 15 yuan Tsingtaos, making Tun by far the cheapest large bar in the city. For extra fun, try playing “Chinese rules” at the pool table. Open: 6 p.m.–Late Tel: +86 10 6585 5866 E-mail: info@shutupjustdrink.com Address: Tun, Sanlitun area, Courtyard Four, 20 metres south of Salsa Caribe, Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District 三里屯, 朝阳区工体北路4号 Croon Some Sinatra at the Karaoke Parlour From “Yesterday” to “Yesterday Once More,” sample the mind-melting homogeneity of mandopop music at Party World, where your heart will go “O-bla-di, O-bla-da” down a “Country Road” to finish at the “Hotel California” with the “Sound of Silence.” Book ahead by telephone or on the internet. It’s most expensive at weekends and 8 p.m.—midnight, but there’s a free buffet and soft drinks at meal times. A member of staff will be right there waiting for your reservation number up to 15 minutes after the time you’re supposed to show up. Chaowai Party World: Address: First Floor, Prime Tower, 22 Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳门外大街22号 Tel: +86 10 6588 3333 Capital Stadium Party World Address: Tengda Tower, 168 Xizhimenwai Dajie, Haidian District 海淀区西直门外大街168号 Tel: +86 10 8857 6588 Yonghe Gong Party World Address: First floor, East Building of Yonghe Tower, 28 Andingmen Dongdajie, Dongcheng District 东城区安定门东大街28号 Tel: +86 10 5811 3888 Huixin Party World Address: 4 Huixin Dongjie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区惠新东街4号 Tel: +86 10 5963 9666 Discover the City by Bike To borrow an image from Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance, when you travel through Beijing by car, you’re just looking at the city; but when you ride through it on a bike, you’re part of it. It might seem hair-raising at first, but until very recently Beijing was a city of bicycles, and cyclists and motorists have a better mutual understanding than in most European capitals. Many streets have wide, well-defined bike lanes and bicycles can be rented at many hotels and through a network of bicyle-rental sites, especially around subway exits, such as Dongzhimen, Xizhimen, Jishuitan and Beijing Railway Station. With a 200 yuan deposit, you can rent a bike for two yuan an hour. Your bike can be returned and your deposit recovered at any of the network’s sites. For English language-friendly bike rentals and guided bike tours, check out http://www.bj-biketour.com.cn Play Chinese Chess in the Park It’s not uncommon to happen across a crowd in the street surrounding two hyped-up men at a wooden board. The board is covered in strange markings and round wooden pieces, each with a character inscribed on top. The men take turns to move pieces, slapping them down on the board with great gusto, especially when removing one of the other man’s pieces at the same time. The crowd murmurs approval or disgust as the move merits. Chinese chess is not nearly so genteel as what the Chinese call “international chess.” But the best place to see this (and learn the rules and join in!) is in the public parks, especially in the morning. Try it for a real taste of local culture. You’ll make loads of friends in no time, too. Long Corridor Temple of Heaven Park 天坛公园 Or try by the lakeside in Yuyuantan Park 玉渊潭公园 Make & Fly a Kite Flying kites is a very common activity in Beijing. It takes skill, which kite-flying Beijingers in the park or on public squares will be only too happy to teach you. But you could also go one step further and learn something about the dying art of making kites. To fly, go to any park or open public space. To buy and learn about making kites, try: Gaobidian Folk Culture Street Address: Gaobeidian Village, Chaoyang District 朝阳区高碑店村民俗文化街 Contact: Liu Xin Tel: +86 10 8575 5557 How to get there: Take subway Line 1 to Sihui Dong then change to the Batong Line for Gaobeidian Station. Bus Nos. 312, 468, 628 and 649 also go to Gaobeidian Ancient City Rather than staying in one of Beijing’s many modern hotels, try plugging into the life and culture of the old city with a night spent in the hutong. Several old residences have been converted into guesthouses, allowing you to experience the charming communal feel of Old Beijing. Lu Song Yuan Hotel The former residence of a famous Qing general, four independent courtyards combine into a whole mansion. The name “Lu Song Yuan” comes from two centuries-old pines that grow side by side, intimately, like a couple. Tel: +86 10 6404 0436 Address: 22 Banchang Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区板厂胡同22号 Bamboo Garden Hotel Located in a tranquil hutong near the Drum Tower, this was formerly the mansion of Sheng Xuanhuai, minister of Posts in the late Qing Dynasty. From 1950–55, Dong Biwu, vice-chairman of the People’s Republic of China, lived here. Verdant bamboo forests, Chinese flowering crabapples and curving long-corridors combine to create an elegant ambience. Tel: +86 10 5852 0088 WWW: http://www.bbgh.com.cn Address: 24 Xiao Shiqiao Hutong, Jiu Gulou Dajie, Xichengcheng District 西城区旧鼓楼大街小石桥胡同24号竹园宾馆 Tour the Hutong If you’re pressed for time, or don’t fancy wearing out your shoe leather, ride around the heart of old Beijing in the back of a pedicab for an hour or two. You can stop off and look around former palaces and/or the homes of ordinary Beijingers. Be warned that you may also be taken to rather a lot of shops, so it’s best to be very clear about your itinerary before setting off. Some attractions en route may require the purchase of additional entrance tickets. Where to go: The best places to pick up a pedicab are opposite the North Gate of Beihai Park and on the square in between the Drum and Bell Towers (actually one of the old city’s loveliest spots, as you’ll see if you come back in the evening after all the tour buses and pedicabs have gone). 到胡同去, 北海公园北门对面, 钟鼓楼 Prices: Can be negotiable, but expect to start at around 80 yuan for a one-hour tour, 180 yuan for two hours. There are longer tours that include cookery lessons and a visit to a school. Float Around Houhai Lake One of Beijing’s more romantic options, a summer evening on a southern-style wooden boat being rowed around Houhai lake while a young lady in the bow plays sweet music on traditional Chinese instruments. After dark, the boat passes under Yingding Bridge into the larger lake to the north, where candles are lit and floated off in little paper canoes. It’s a memorable sight as the black lake sparkles with dozens of tiny flames. River Romance Time: About 7 p.m., tour takes about an hour Tel: +86 10 6618 5806 Price: 200 yuan per boat (seats up to 10 people) Address: About 100 metres north of the southern entrance to Lotus Lane (west side of Houhai, Ping’an Dajie) 后海边上, 从平安大道, 北海公园北门对面向北100米 Artist and photographer Xu Yong is the creator of one of Beijing’s best known and most popular tourist attractions, the “Hutong Tour”, in which three-wheeled pedicabs ferry tourists around the shrinking environs of the old city. “I came from Shanghai to Beijing in 1965, when I lived a former noble’s courtyard divided into several small sections in Dongsitoutiao Hutong. I lived in the north hall of the middle section. I think Dongsitoutiao Hutong was very narrow, less then eight metres wide at that time. Some flowers and melons were planted in the courtyard, which was a typical traditional one. Now it’s been replaced by a multi-story building.” After a varied career as a worker and engineer, Xu discovered his vocation as a photographer. “During my spare time, I put cultural history and modern commerce together in a photographic album called Beijing 101 Photos. This came out in 1991. It reflected the real Beijng hutong and was well reviewed. After that, I started thinking about the original hutong tour. Before the tour began, there were some opposing opinions. Some people believed the hutong were a mess and shouldn’t be shown to foreigners. I spent two years writing a report to put across my own viewpoints, which were that the hutong weren’t a mess, but cultural relics; that the hutong were not only cultural relics, but a place where real people lived; and that only by knowing the past could we comprehend New Beijing.” Rub Your Animal at the White Cloud Temple Chinese visitors to the capital’s largest Taoist temple like to seek out its marble relief sculptures of the 12 animals which are assigned to the 12-year cycle of the traditional Chinese calendar. Depending on their year of birth, they find the corresponding animal and give it a good rub for luck. This year is the Year of the Rat. Records suggest there has been a Taoist temple on this site since 741 in the Tang Dynasty. Its importance grew during the reign of the first Yuan emperor, Kublai Khan (1260–1293), who appointed a Taoist priest from Shandong named Qiu Chuji as the “State Tutor.” While Qiu Chuji was in Beijing, he resided in what was then known as the Temple of the Great Ultimate, which he expanded and renamed the Temple of Eternal Spring. From then on, this temple became the center of Taoism in northern China. The current name of the White Cloud Temple (Baiyunguan) dates from the Zhengtong era (1436–49) of the Ming Dynasty, while the buildings themselves were reconstructed during the Qing Dynasty (1644–1911) and exemplify the Taoist architecture of that period. A mosque was first built on this site in 996 by an imam named Nasruddin, the son of an Arab imam who came to China to spread the Islamic faith. As home the oldest and largest mosque in Beijing, Ox Street (Niujie) has attracted a significant Muslim community to settle around it. Today’s visitors can still see many shops and restaurants featuring Arabic script and Islamic art. When it was first built, the architecture of the Ox Street Mosque was in pure Arabic style. During its many phases of reconstruction and renovation, elements of traditional Chinese architecture were adopted. Major renovation projects were carried out in 1442, then again during the time of Qing Emperor Kangxi (1662–1722) and once more after the founding of the People’s Republic of China in 1949, when the buildings were entirely repainted and redecorated. Among several items of historical interest, the mosque features a stone tablet by Kangxi absolving the Hui Muslim people of a conspiracy to overthrow the Qing Dynasty. Open: 8:30 a.m–4:30 p.m Admission:10 yuan Address: Baiyun Lu, Fuxingmenwai Dajie, Xicheng District 西直门复兴门外大街白云路 Ox Street Mosque Open: 8 a.m. –4 p.m. Admission: 10 yuan Address: 88 Niujie, Xuanwu District 北京市宣武区牛街88号 NB: 1. Proper dress is required. No admittance if you are wearing shorts or a skirt. 2. Admittance to the Prayer Hall is limited to Muslims only. 3. Some areas in the mosque are not open to the public. Please refer to the information on the ticket. Bow to Confucius at His Temple China’s most celebrated teacher and educator has achieved quasi-divine status, symbolized by this tranquil temple next door to the former Imperial College. Students often visit to pay respects to the master’s statue in the entrance courtyard, and wish for luck in upcoming exams. The courtyard also holds 198 stone tablets that record the names and origins of all the scholars who passed the highest imperial exams during the Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties. Another striking feature of the Confucius Temple is the 700-year-old Chujian Bai (Touch Evil Cypress). Its name derives from a Ming Dynasty story, according to which a high-ranking official named Yan Song one day came to worship Confucius on behalf of the emperor. When he was passing by the cypress, one of the branches of the tree took his hat off. Since Yan Song was a treacherous official, it was subsequently believed that the old tree could tell whether a person was good or bad. This vast statue of the Buddha Maitreya stands in the three-storey Pavilion of Ten Thousand Joys (Wanfuge) at the north end of the Lama Temple, otherwise known as Yonghegong. It was carved from a single giant sandalwood tree, a gift from the Sixth Dalai Lama to Emperor Qianlong in 1750. Built in 1694 during the Qing Dynasty, the Lama Temple was originally the residence of Emperor Yongzheng before he ascended to the imperial throne. In 1744, it was changed into Beijing’s largest Tibetan lamasery. On arrival at the South Gate, notice the red walls and stone lions, symbols which show that this lamasery was originally the dwelling of a member of the imperial family. Inside the second courtyard are two octagonal stele pavilions containing Emperor Qianlong’s description of the traditional and historical reasons that dwellings formerly used by imperial family members should later be changed into temples. Address: Guozijian Street, about 100 metres east of the Lama Temple (Yonghegong Subway Station) 北京那个东城区国子监街雍和宫地铁站向东约100米 Open: 8.30 a.m. –5 p.m. Admission: 10 yuan Yonghegong Address: Corner of Yonghegong Dajie and the North Second Ring Road at Yonghegong Bridge. Yonghegong Subway Station is directly under the temple. 雍和宫大街与北二环交叉口-雍和宫桥. 乘地铁雍和宫站直达. Open: 9 a.m.–4 p.m. Admission: 25 yuan “In 2000 I was working at China Daily. Although I thought that other magazines run by westerners tended to be quite interesting, I also thought it would be possible to do more than what the media and newspapers were doing. Even now, most of the travel agencies mainly serve people who are in China for the first time with trips to the Great Wall, the Forbidden City… And after that, what else? Not much, really. “Through the classes and workshops, we try to ‘educate’ people or try to let them absorb more cultural content rather than just take a simple tour. “We have the best Beijing walking tours [that encompass] more than ten routes. [Those who attend] can learn more of Beijing in less crowded places and get a real sense of Beijing.” For more details about The China Culture Center’s activities in August, see its Web site: http://www.chinaculturecenter.org Learn to Cook Something Chinese Try pulling dough into thin "longevity" noodles. No knives or any other tools needed! Longevity noodles are made for birthdays, especially for the elderly. Next make two types of dumplings (jiaozi) with different fillings and flavours (vegetarian and meaty). For this and many other events and activities, check out the Web site of the China Culture Center. August’s programme also includes Chinese knot-tying, grass weaving, buduihua (patchwork picture making) and making cloth tiger pillows. China Culture Center, Tel: +86 10 6432 9341, 6432 1041 WWW: http://www.chinaculturecenter.org Address: Kent Center, 29 Anjialou, Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区亮马桥路29号安家楼肯特中心院内 Watch the Flag-raising Ceremony at Tian’anmen Join the masses at sunrise to watch a guard of honour raise the flag of the People’s Republic of China. Address: North Tian’anmen Square, opposite Mao’s portrait on the Tian’anmen Rostrum. Visit the Mao Mausoleum Vladimir Ilyich Lenin? Check. Ho Chi Minh? Check. Kim Il-sung? Check. You’ve seen the rest, now pay your respects to the best: deposit bag and camera, get in line with the masses and no dawdling at the last resting place of the late chairman who once declared “the Chinese people have stood up” from a balcony only about 200 metres north of here. You can also watch a 20-minute Mao movie only a short leap from his 3.45-metre-high sculpture in the entrance hall. In nearby rooms can be seen documents, letters and historical photos of other famous Chinese Communist leaders such as Zhou Enlai, Liu Shaoqi, Zhu De, Deng Xiaoping and Chen Yun. Chairman Mao Zedong Memorial Hall Address: South of the Monument to the People’s Heroes, Tian’anmen Square Open: 8–11:30 a.m. Closed on Mondays Admission: Free Win a Wet T-Shirt Contest The Water Festival forms part of New Year’s in Thailand, Burma, Cambodia, Laos and parts of Yunnan province on the day of the full moon of the 11th month of each year. Dai ethnic minority performers re-enact the splashing daily at the Beijing Ethnic Culture Park. The splashing sometimes gets too rough, but nobody is supposed to get angry. Tourists are encouraged to join in: the idea is the more water, the happier your future life. Ethnic Culture Park Address: 1 Minzuyuan Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区民族园路1号 Tel: +86 10 6206 3646 86, 6206 3647, 62063640 Water splashing times: Tues.–Sun. 8 a.m.–Noon Admission: South Garden 60 yuan (open April–November), North Garden 60 yuan, 90 yuan for two. Discounts for seniors, students and disabled. Be a Dictionary at English Corner What country are you from? Do you like China? Where have you visited in China? Which place did you like best? Do you like Chinese food? How much money do people make in your country? How much does a plane ticket cost to your country? With oil prices rising, increasing hunger freak weather incidents all over the world, what should we do? Tell the taxi driver to drop you off 7–10 p.m. most Fridays at the East Gate of Renmin University. Walk to the garden just inside. The crowd there is the “English Corner.” If not sure, just ask around: most university students know some simple English. Be ready to re-educate yourself: “People’s University” students must be among the most intelligent and patriotic in all of China. Watch a Yangge Performance by the Roadside Yangge is a group dance which just a few years ago could be seen most evenings all over the city, especially under the flyovers of the ring roads. Now traffic has driven many of the dancers out, but this favourite of the capital’s senior citizens can still be seen in a few more out-of-the-way locations. More common are the ballroom dancing groups which gather at dusk in parks and also by the north gate of the Workers’ Stadium (probably not during the Olympics, however). Watch a Drive-in Movie An almost-extinct culture from the United States survives in Beijing thanks to this unusual institution. The drive-in opened a decade ago when private cars were a rarity; it’s now part of a thriving entertainment complex which also features one of the city’s best live-music venues, Dos Kolegas. Find Mao’s Former Residence on “Fragrant Hill” One hundred and sixty hectares of maple, smoke, persimmon, pine and cypress trees populate this popular park. Shuangqing Villa, once the residence of Mao Zedong, is also here. The incorrect Chinglish name “Fragrant Hill” will stick forever, but visitors might like to know the correct translation for “Xiang Shan” should be “Incense Mountain,” after the two large stones resembling incense burners at the tip of 557-metre Incense Burner Peak. From Worried Ghost Peak on a clear day can be seen the Yongding River, the Marco Polo Bridge, Shijing Mountain, the Summer Palace, Jade Spring Mountain and sometimes even the Beijing skyline 17 miles to the southeast. Address: In a garden inside the East Gate of Renmin University, Haidian 人民大学东门花园 Roadside Gaobeidian Folk Culture Street Address: Gaobeidian Village, Chaoyang District 朝阳区高碑店村民俗文化街 Contact: Liu Xin Tel: +86 10 8575 5557 How to get there: Take subway Line 1 to Sihui Dong then change to the Batong Line for Gaobeidian Station. Bus Nos. 312, 468, 628 and 649 also go to Gaobeidian Drive-in Movie Tel: +86 10 6431 9595, 5165 2832 Address: 100 Daliangmaqiao (go 1.5 km east from the Lufthansa Center at Yansha Qiao) 汽车电影场, 朝阳区燕莎桥东1500米路北, 大亮马桥100号 Fragrant Hill Open: 7 a.m.–6 p.m. Tel: +86 10 6259 1155, 6259 1264 Admission: 10 yuan Address: Xiangshan Lu, Haidian District 香山公园, 海淀区香山路 Suburban Flight The largest and most complete group of imperial tombs in China is far more impressive than the Ming Tombs, but seldom visited due to their relative remoteness from the city. The Qing Tombs are screened by mountains to their north and set off by evergreen pines and cypresses. Five emperors, 15 empresses, 136 concubines, three princes and two princesses of the Qing Dynasty (1644–1911) are buried in 15 tombs in a 2,499-square-kilometre area. Shunzhi, Kangxi, Qianlong, Xianfeng, the Empress Dowager Cixi and Empress Ci’an were all buried in splendid underground palaces at this site. Qianlong ruled China for 60 years at the peak of Qing power and his tomb’s three underground chambers are filled with Buddhist art and inscriptions in Sanskrit and Tibetan. Empress Dowager Cixi’s tomb is about half a mile west of Qianlong's. Step Back in Time at Jimingyi Better known to foreigners as the Cock’s Crow Post Station, this ancient town has been listed as one of the world’s top 100 most endangered cultural heritage sites. Originally established as a postal relay station under Kublai Khan’s Mongol Yuan Dynasty (1271–1368), it was expanded under the Ming Dynasty (1368–1644) and remained an important part of China’s postal system until the northern warlord government abolished its role in 1913. Much of the ancient city wall is intact, as are many temples and other buildings from the Ming and Qing dynasties. The oldest structure, Ningyong Temple, dates back around 800 years. Taste Chinese Wine at the Source Most probably you didn’t even know that China produced wine. Test the vintages at a private, organic vineyard, or alternatively try a drop at the only foreign-owned winery in Beijing, Bodega Langes Winery. If you have a glass too many at the latter, you can stay the night in four-star luxury, as well. Qing Tombs Open: 8 a.m.–5:30 p.m. Admission: 90 yuan Address: Zunhua County, Hebei Province 清东陵，河北省遵化县 How to get there: It's a three-hour, 120-kilometre journey by the 206 bus departing from the northeast of the Xuanwumen subway station Jimingyi Address: Huailai County, Hebei Province How to get there: Straight up the Beijing-Zhangjiakou Expressway. Tours can be arranged through West China Adventure Tours. Tel: +86 13910767325 E-mail: inquiry@westchina.net.cn Source Chateau Bolongbao 波龙堡酒庄 Tel: +86 10 8037 5711 E-mail: blb@blbwine.com; blbwines@163.com Cost: About 150 yuan including instruction and wine tasting Address: Shibamudi Village, Fangshan District 中国北京房山区城关街道办事处八十亩地村 Bodega Langes Winery Tel: +86 10 8451 3633 (ask for Ms. Wang) E-mail: info@bodga-langes.com Cost: About 20 yuan a glass for tasting Address: Changli, Hebei 河北省昌黎县 To arrange tours to these and other wineries: Tel: +86 13910767325 E-mail: inquiry@westchina.net.cn Catch-and-release, of course. A short walk from the Yonganli station on the Beijing Subway Line 1 is an altar built in 1530 for ritual sacrifices to the sun by the Emperor. The area around this stone altar is now popular for kite flying. As in many city parks, there are mini-carousel rides, musical cars and trampolines as well as goldfish in the lovely lake under a weeping willow tree. For the more adventurous, there’s a climbing wall in the northeast corner of the park. Drive Through the Great Mall of China The “mall that will change your life” opened in October 2004. With 20,000 employees, 10,000 free parking spaces, 1,600 shops, 230 escalators, 90 flagship stores, a seven-screen cinema, a skating rink and a health and fitness center, the Golden Resources Shopping Mall is a 678,000-square-metre cathedral to consumerism, containing six floors of glass and steel spanning the length of six football fields. Its restaurant space could fill two such fields. Children can rent electric-powered carts near Toysmart on the fourth floor. Down the hall are two different playgrounds that charge by the hour for jungle-gym access. Take the Plunge at Fundazzle It used to be an indoor swimming pool. Today Fundazzle is a loud and bright enclosed playground, the perfect place for kids on a rainy day. There’s a climbing maze, a two-storey jungle gym, trampolines and toddler area with cars, swings, seesaws and houses. The deep end is a vast plastic ball-filled pool. On weekends, counselors perform and teach arts and crafts. Avoid weekends if possible. Be sure your child has socks or rent them there. And there are sharks to see next door at the Blue Zoo. Make a Splash at Taoranting Park Plunge into the enormous water park or mess about in the clean playground with padding on the ground. Children will like the birds and other animals in Peacock Park. There’s a long and curvy lake for pedalo boats and ponds for fishing, plus plenty of shade to watch Beijingers sing, dance and play mahjong. Adopt a Dog or Cat The Beijing Human and Animal Environmental Education Center is the only shelter in China that combines pet rescue, adoption and humane education. Since 1997, the shelter’s 12 dog and cat kennels, boarding facilities, quarantine area, veterinary clinic and classroom have helped rescue and provide homes to hundreds of dogs and cats off the street. Each dog receives one to two hours of human contact every day. Through the dedicated work of its founder Zhang Luping, the center is directly reducing the suffering of pets and encouraging policy makers to establish humane standards for dogs and cats. Get Your Skates On Beat the heat for a few hours at a local skating rink in an environment at least 20 degrees cooler than outside. Le Cool hosts a range of activities, including age-graded skating classes and hockey training. The Champion Rink in Golden Resources Shopping Mall has the largest ice surface in Beijing. Used as a venue for national skating competitions, Century Star in Shouti has a professional team of teachers, most of whom have won national and international championships. Open: 6 a.m.–8 p.m. Tel: +86 8563 5038 Address: Ritan Park, 6 Ritan Beilu, Chaoyang District 日坛公园，朝阳区日坛北路6号 The Great Mall of China Golden Resources Shopping Mall Open: Mon.–Thurs. 10 a.m.–9 p.m., Fri.–Sun. 10 a.m.–10 p.m. Address: West Fourth Ring Road, Haidian District 金源新燕莎，海淀区西东四环 Fundazzle Open: Mon.–Fri. 9 a.m.–5:30 p.m., Sat.–Sun. and public holidays 9 a.m.–7 p.m. Tel: +86 10 6500 4193 Tickets: 30 yuan a child for two hours Address: Gongti Nanlu, 工体南路 Taoranting Park Open: Daily 6 a.m.–9 p.m. Tel: +86 10 6353 2385 Admission: adults 2 yuan, kids 1 yuan Address: 19 Taiping Jie, Xuanwu District 陶然亭公园，宣武区太平街19号 Adopt a Dog or Cat Beijing Human and Animal Environmental Education Centre Tel: +86 10 6178 6778 E-mail: zhangyi45@mail.china.com; info@animalschina.org Address: 22 Xisi Beiliutiao, Xicheng District 西城区西四北六条22号 Skating Rinks Le Cool Ice Rink Open: 10 a.m.–10 p.m. Tickets: 30–50 yuan per 90 min. Personal teacher: 100 yuan per 40 mins. Tel: +86 10 6505 5776 WWW: http://www.cwtc.com Address: Basement 2, China World Trade Center, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. 国贸B2，朝阳区建国门外大街1号 Champion Rink at Golden Resources Open: 9:30–5 p.m. Tickets: 25–45 yuan per 90 mins. Personal teacher: 120 yuan per 45 mins. Tel: +86 10 8887 4899 Address: Basement 2, Golden Resources Shopping Mall, West Fourth Ring Road, Haidian 金源新燕莎， 海淀区西东四环 Century Star Skating Rink at Shouti Tel: +86 10 6834 8684 WWW: http://www.centurystar.com.cn Price: Training class: 80 yuan per 90 mins. Address: 56 Shouti Nanlu, Xicheng District 西城区首体南路56号 |
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