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Cabbing the Capital: Surviving the Beijing Taxi Experience

Less than five months before the big event, it looks as though Beijing's “iconic” Olympic architecture is finally coming together. The striking Terminal 3 is now in operation, the CCTV tower is nearing completion, and pristine paving slabs are being laid around the Bird’s Nest. While these constructions are sure to impress most foreigners when they hit town, the logistics of travel around this city may take the edge off the Olympic ride for a fair few tourists.

Beijing’s recently expanded network of subway lines will go a long way to solving transport problems for many foreigners during the Games. However, it's a safe bet that the vast majority of the anticipated 500,000 overseas guests will throw themselves at the mercy of a local cab driver at some point. Without care and attention, those without a word of Mandarin may find this a somewhat vexing experience.

Long-timers in the capital can easily forget the trials and tribulations of their first few Chinese taxi rides. Looking back to a time of beaten-up Xialis, I vaguely remember ending up in the suburbs of Tianjin on more than a few occasions. Rummaging through pockets for scraps of paper decorated with Chinese addresses while being sworn at in colourful Mandarin seems to be a rite of passage for many new arrivals, at least those with poor organizational skills and atrocious Chinese.

Communication problems can hardly be laid at the feet of Beijing’s cabbies, who unsurprisingly complain that they’re unable to remember the dozens of English phrases required to pass mandatory tests. While the occasional driver is only too happy to practice his new-found language skills, it’s usually the foreign passenger who labours to decipher some rapid fire Beijing patois.

As Sun Tzu said, he who is prepared will be victorious, and a little forethought can go a long way to smoothing a Beijing taxi ride. Hotel staff and Chinese friends can write addresses in Mandarin to hand to drivers, and some English-language magazines provide the addresses of restaurants and bars in Chinese. Of course, not all Beijing destinations are logically located, so if your driver still ends up looking like he’s perplexed, call your intended destination and let them do the talking.

Other useful tips include having some small change; proffering a 100 yuan note for a 13 yuan ride will almost inevitably incur the wrath of the driver, and may result in a brisk jog to the local store to purchase chewing gum. Never open your door without looking behind you, as electric bikes are silent, fast, and usually make a sizeable dent in a taxi door.

Contrary to the bad press they receive, most Beijing cabbies are extremely personable and helpful types, so wherever you find yourself, it’s not the end of the world. Lie back and take comfort from the fact that as you motor round in circles, you're faithfully following in the tire marks of countless other newcomers.