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Shaguo Ju: A Recipe for Success

It’s cold outside, which means it’s also a great time to enjoy the warmth of a hot and tasty traditional Chinese stew (shaguo).

The name shaguo is derived from a kind of pottery used widely in China, especially in winter, for stewing foods. Many ingredients, including meat, seafood and vegetables, find their way into shaguo. Shaguo Ju, a Zhongguo laozihao (China Time Honoured Brand) near Xidan in Central Beijing is the very best place in the capital to savour this delicacy.

Upon entry into the restaurant, a 218-kilogramme, 1.2 metre diameter glazed shaguo containing raised Chinese characters informs diners of Shaguo Ju’s major attractions. Built in 1741, it has long been famous for dishes shaguo-stewed foods.

Though shaguo can be bought at local markets for a pittance and though shaguo dishes are easily cooked, many locals prefer to dine at Shaguo Ju. It is simply the best. Among their dishes, shaguo bairou (a mix of streaky pork, pickled cabbage and vermicelli) is the most popular. Other famous dishes include shaguo shizitou (large minced meat balls) and shaguo yuchi (shark’s fin).

When speaking about Shaguo Ju, elderly local citizens will recall its prosperity since the Qing Dynasty (1644–1911). For 266 years, it has been in the same place, in an area once dotted with the mansions of princes and high officials. Hence, lots of meat was left over after prayer rituals. Some of this was given to bellman, and they cooked the meat in shaguo, because it was simple and delicious. Sometimes, chefs working in the palaces of princes were invited to help them cook. Later, a small restaurant was set up near Xidan specializing in cooking shaguo dishes. This is how Shaguo Ju came into being. It was said that after Emperor Qianlong (1736–95) tasted it, its fame was spread across the capital. As the raw materials were strictly selected and the dishes were popular, the limited amount of food was seldom enough. Thus, the restaurant only ran half day business; people strived to arrive early.

What was Shaguo Ju’s secret for success?

The meat at Shaguo Ju is carefully selected, then special care is taken to ensure good taste. The streaky pork is grilled with the skin on, but the seared skin is then pealed away. Next, it is stewed with a nutritious stock, with a chicken or duck base (use water at home if no stock is available). When pork is half-boiled, reduce heat to a simmer for slow-cooking. The last thing to add is some vegetables. Along the way, the fat in the pork is greatly reduced, while nutritional values remain constant. This explains why the chefs and waitresses at Shaguo Ju who often eat meat are able to keep fit and slim.

The restaurant’s current three-storey building was rebuilt in the 1980s on the same historical site of the original. It is rare in today’s Beijing that even a Time Honoured Brand can remain in the same place, let alone for more than 260 years.

Ms. Shen, the director of Shaguo Ju said, “Keeping with tradition and developing with the times are the two things that have guaranteed our success.”

Shaguo dishes are the all-time backbones of the business, but popular local dishes such as gongbao jiding (stir-fried chicken with peanuts) also appears on menus as supplements.

The restaurant is divided into three stories to meet the different needs of diners. The first floor is for those who just want to taste two or three of the most popular dishes. The average cost of a meal here is about 30 yuan (US$3.75) per person. The most popular dish shaguo bairou is 22 yuan (US$2.75). The second floor is oriented toward the middle class and has higher requirements. Most of the tables are for ten persons, with an average cost of 300 yuan–800 yuan (US$37.50–$100). In addition, there are three large rooms named: “Dragon,” “Phoenix” and “Fortune.” These are decorated in a traditional Chinese style. Five luxury rooms can be found on the third floor, each with a huge table that can be used to serve 20 people. Top-quality Ming Dynasty-style wooden chairs, shining yellow tableware, hanging imperial lanterns and exquisite adornments mark its uniqueness. Tableware on both the second and third floors are in the Chinese imperial style, from colours to patterns.

It is said that nianye fan (the feast on Chinese New Year’s Eve) at Shaguo Ju was fully booked by the end of 2006.