Winter Wonderland Get Back to Nature on Sichuan’s Northern Front

High on the edge of the sprawling Tibetan plateau, northern Sichuan Province is a region begging to be explored. If you're hardy enough to withstand the seasonal temperatures and lofty elevation, the stunning alpine scenery, pervasive Tibetan and Qiang cultures, and relatively tour-group-free environment combine to make an exhilarating winter retreat.

Just inside Sichuan's northern border, Jiuzhaigou, one of China’s top national parks, is the region's biggest attraction. Thankfully rescued from the deforestation and hydroelectric schemes ravaging nearby areas, the pristine Jiuzhaigou valley is breathtakingly beautiful all year round. Meltwater from snow clad peaks tumbles off heavily forested slopes, forming a series of clear aquamarine lakes and gushing cascades of dazzling natural splendour.

For those who enjoy nature at its tranquil best, however, winter is certainly the optimum time to visit the park. Despite the occasional disturbance by parties in matching baseball caps lead by flag-toting guides, the hordes of summer and autumn's "golden time" are markedly and mercifully absent. Barring heavy snowfall, most trails remain open during the winter months, and there is enough vegetation to give the various pools and waterfalls an extremely picturesque backdrop.

While you may be told otherwise, it is still possible to stay inside the park in the low season. After purchasing admission and transportation tickets at the entrance (see information at the end of this story for prices), independent travellers should head up to the station in Shuzheng, one of several Tibetan villages dotted long the valley.

Negotiate with one of the villagers who approach all travellers deposited at the Shuzheng bus stop for the speedy procurement of nightly accommodation. Don't expect five-star luxury, but the basic nature of the tourist facilities at Shuzheng is more than compensated for by fantastic views, easy access to sights and trails, and the hospitable nature of the locals. Toilets are primitive, and the nights are perishingly cold, so be sure to take warm clothing and a plentiful supply of wet wipes! Meals of simple Tibetan food (yak meat and yak butter feature heavily on the menu) are available at minimal cost. 

Although the whole of the Jiuzhaigou valley, which forks into two at its upper reaches, is worth exploring, those on a restrictive schedule should check out the lakes, falls and pools around Shuzheng Station, as well as the awe-inspiring, icicle-clad cascades at Nuorilang and Pearl Shoal. The Five Colour Lake, resplendent in its peacock feather hues, is also a must see, high up the valley at 3,000 metres.

Only a 2-hour bus ride from Jiuzhaigou is the ancient walled city of Songpan. Primarily viewed as a base for horse trekking in the nearby mountains and grasslands, the winter cold may persuade many to confine their exploration to the city itself. The bustling streets, a well-preserved stretch of city wall, complete with imposing gates, and a fascinating mix of the Tibetan and Muslim cultures, provide enough interest to detain visitors for several days. Look out for some great hotpot and noodle restaurants along and off Zhong Jie, and be sure to sample the great range of sweet and savoury breads on offer.

Although a lot of hotels seem to close down in Songpan during the winter season, it's possible to get some good deals at the ones that remain open. Check out the Huanglong International Hotel on the edge of town for discount rooms with heating, hot water and much needed electric blankets. If you’re really in the mood to brave the cold, call in at Shun Jiang Horse Treks or Happy Trails near the northern bus station for trekking and camping opportunities.

There are regular daily flights from Beijing to Chengdu's Shangliu airport costing 1,000 yuan–1,500 yuan (US$124–186), and short flights from Chengdu to Jiuzhai Huanglong Airport, near the park for less than 500 yuan (US$62). Those who prefer to keep their feet on the ground can take the 26-hour train ride from Beijing to Chengdu. A hard-sleep ticket costs about 450 yuan (less than US$60). This is followed by a bus trip from Chengdu to Jiuzhaigou, a tiring, yet ultimately spectacular 10-hour journey through high mountain scenery at 100 yuan (US$12.40).

Forsake a few creature comforts, escape the tourist crowd and get a lungful of pollution-free mountain air in one of China's great wildernesses. Hurry up and break out the cold weather gear before things heat up!

 

Info:

Best souvenir:  Tibetan silverware (10 yuan–200 yuan)

Best food: (Tibetan) Yak meat kebab (2 yuan)–Jiuzhaigou

         (Western) Hamburger & Fries (25 yuan) – Grandma's Kitchen, Chengdu

Park Admission (compulsory): 80 yuan (2 days)

Park Transport (optional): 80 yuan (2 days, unlimited use) 

Accommodation:

Jiuzhaigou (Shuzheng Station): about 60 yuan/night, meals 15 yuan/night

Songpan: 100 yuan–150 yuan/night (hotel)

Chengdu: 100 yuan–150 yuan/night (hostel/hotel)