The Santa Season in Other Lands

Christmas goodies galore, especially for children, are already starting to fill the shelves and showcases of Beijing's stores, unblushing confirmation that Yuletide here, as in many developed countries, has long been a major retailing operation rather than primarily the Christian religious festival that marks the birth of Jesus. Colin  Manley provides a rundown of traditions and celebrations in other parts of the world. 

Whether you pay lip-service to the true meaning of Christmas by making an annual visit to church on December 25, the festival is a decidedly global celebration in commercial terms at least. Traditions and foods may differ according to country, culture and climate, but people's need to share the event with their family and friends also cuts across many ethnic lines. Such loving human instincts-especially the acts of giving gifts and showing compassion to the less fortunate-are part of the real message of Christmas, however it is celebrated.

Australia

As in many African and other southern-hemisphere countries, Christmas is largely celebrated outdoors because of the December heat. Thus a traditional English-style ''Down Under'' dinner of roast turkey and all the trimmings is largely in ''barbie'' (barbecue) form or around a swimming pool. The English custom of baking a small silver coin into the Christmas pudding is maintained, and whoever finds it in their mouth can look forward to good luck, that's if they haven't choked on the coin. Guests often play scratch games of cricket or other sports on the lawn once their heavy meal has been digested. As laid-back as ordinary Australian mortals, Father Christmas is likely to arrive aboard a decorated fire engine or even on a surfboard in coastal areas. 

Belgium

On December 6, Sinterklaas, or St. Nicholas, is celebrated as an entirely different holiday from Christmas. In this country, Santa Claus is called de Kerstman, or le Pere Noel, who arrives on Christmas Eve to deliver presents to children. Small family gifts are also exchanged, whether placed under a Christmas tree or inside stockings hung near the fireplace. Seasonal breakfasts include a special sweet bread called cougnou or cougnolle, usually kneaded to form the shape of the infant Jesus. Many families have another big meal on Christmas Day.  

Brazil

Father Christmas is called Papai Noel, and many Christmas customs, such as gift-giving, are similar to those in Britain and the United States. For well-heeled citizens, a special Christmas meal usually composed of turkey, chicken, ham, pork, rice, fresh and dried fruits, and beer. Poorer people celebrate with chicken, rice and whatever else they can afford. Some less-well-off families ''pool'' their food and consume it at gatherings of their extended family.

England

Christmas began in AD 596 when St. Augustine landed on English soil with monks to preach Christianity. Santa Claus is better known as Father Christmas, and gifts ostensibly left by him are not opened until Christmas Day. Probably the majority of families spend Christmas Day eating and watching seasonal movies and special shows on TV. Visits to their wider family and friends are saved for other days of what is now a lengthy holiday that includes New Year. Christmas church-going is at a low level, but many people offer their time to hospitals to give nurses a break and bring cheer to child patients particularly.   

Ethiopia

Christmas is celebrated in January at a festival called Ganna, when there is much ceremony. Church interiors here are usually designed in three concentric circles to aid the separation of males and females. A choir performs outside the circles while worshippers with candles walk around the church three times. A Mass can last three hours so stamina is called for, because no one is allowed to sit. Traditional dishes include a sourdough, pancake-like bread, served with a spicy chicken stew called daro wat.

France

Here, Father Christmas is always called Pere Noel. Virtually every family has a bulb-lit Christmas tree, sometimes also decorated in the old way with red ribbons and real white-wax candles. The Christmas Day meal is an important family gathering, with the best possible meats and wines on the table. Gifts are exchanged around the Christmas tree, but the sending of Christmas cards is believed to have tailed off somewhat in recent years. 

Hungary

Santa Claus, known as Winter Grandfather, comes on December 6. Children have to clean their shoes and place them next to a door or window before they go to sleep. Next day they are rewarded with small gifts in a red bag. On December 24, youngsters go to stay with relatives or to the movies to allow Jesus to deliver a Christmas tree and presents to their home. Families usually cook a festive dinner on Christmas Day.

Latvia

Citizens believe that Father Christmas brings presents on each of the 12 days of Christmas, starting on Christmas Eve. Thus family and other gifts gradually accumulate under the Christmas tree before a ''share-out'' later during the 12 days. Latvians were the first to decorate Christmas trees; now it's a worldwide custom. A family's special Christmas Day meal is usually cooked brown peas with bacon (pork) sauce, small pies, cabbage and sausage.

Portugal

People pretend that Father Christmas brings presents to children on Christmas Eve, and leaves them under the Christmas tree or in shoes left by the fireplace. The festival's special family meal, eaten at midnight on Christmas Eve, is often salted dry codfish, with boiled potatoes.

Russia

In the days of the Soviet Union, Christmas was not widely celebrated. The New Year was the important time, when Father Frost brought presents to children. These days, Christmas can be openly celebrated, either on December 25 or more often on January 7. This unusual date is because the Russian Orthodox Church uses the old Julian calendar for religious celebrations. Special Christmas foods include pies, meat dumplings and cakes.