Treasure the Pearls

For foreign tourists planning to visit China and Beijing, a guide book's introduction to Beijing's Pearl Market is a "must-read."

The Pearl Market is Asia's largest collection and distribution centre for pearls, and an astonishingly wide range of pearls, from the inexpensive (less than 100 yuan or US$12.37) to the luxurious (to about 1 million yuan or US$123,645), can be found there. In September 2005, an international pearl festival, with participants ranging from foreign ambassadors and Chinese officials as well as Beijing's laobaixing (the "old hundred surnames" or common folk), was held to promote the market.

Currently, the Pearl Market has three floors devoted to pearl sales, with the third floor catering to low-and middle-valued products, while the fourth and fifth floors serve high-end customers. According to the specific requirements and character of customers, outlets at the market can design different styles of pearl products.

At the request of Beijing This Month, experts at Fanghua Pearls in the Pearl Market detailed some basic rules for choosing exceptional pearls and some methods for taking care of them.

The internationally recognized ranking system for pearls includes grades A, A+, AA, AA+, and AAA. On this scale, AAA is gem-quality, and a flawless, brilliant pearl with high lustre, high shine, and a perfectly unblemished surface should be expected. Six factors determine the quality, value, and aesthetic appeal of pearls: nacre (mother-of-pearl), lustre, surface, shape, colour and size.

Nacre

Nacre is the coating that an oyster forms around the nucleus of a pearl. Nacre thickness determines the longevity of the pearl and nacre quality determines how light reflects through the layers of the pearls.

Lustre

Lustre is a combination of surface brilliance and a deep glow. The lustre of good quality pearls should be bright. One should be able to see his or her reflection clearly on the surface of a pearl.

Surface

The quality of a pearl is greatly affected by blemishes (also called spots or flaws). Pearls with higher lustre conceal blemishes better.

Shape

There are three pearl shapes: symmetrical, spherical and baroque. The spherical is the rarest and most desirable. Symmetrical pearls include teardrop or pear-shaped pearls and are desirable. Baroque pearls are irregularly shaped and often the least expensive.

Colour

Pearls come in a variety of colours, from white to black and every shade in between. Body colour is the predominant basic colour of the pearl. Body colours include white, pink, cream, yellow or gold.

Size

Pearls are measured by their diameter in millimetres. Tiny seed pearls can be smaller than 1 millimetre, while South Sea pearls as large as 20 millimetres have been found. If all other factors (nacre, lustre, surface, shape and colour) are equal, the size of a pearl will determine its value.

Because of their delicate nature, special care must be taken with pearls.

Personal Care Products Can Damage Pearls

Cosmetics, perfume and hairsprays all contain chemicals that can dull the lustre of a pearl. The natural acids contained in body oils and perspiration can damage pearls in the same way. It is best to put the pearls on after applying makeup, perfume and hair spray.

Simple Steps to Protect Your Pearls

Wipe the pearls with a soft damp cloth after wearing them. Periodically, pearls should be washed with a mild soap.

Store Pearls Separately

Always keep your pearls separated from hard jewellery items, to prevent them from being scratched. Peals are best kept in a soft cloth pouch or in a softly lined jewellery box or compartment.

When to Have Pearls Restrung

If pearls are worn often, they should be restrung about once a year to prevent strand breakage.