Former Imperial City Wall Transformed into A City Central Park

Old Beijing was a city of walls within walls built around the need to protect China's emperors and their families.

Surrounding the Forbidden City lay the Imperial City, an exclusive area that was home to many of the Court's highest officials. During the 15^th century reign of Ming Dynasty Emperor Yongle a nine kilometre-long wall with seven gates was erected to enclose the area. It was built with bricks called Da Cheng Yang that were traditionally plastered over with lime, brushed red and finally capped with yellow-glazed tiles.  Mostly removed between 1924 and 1926, only a small section of the wall to the east of the Beijing Grand Hotel remains.

Today, Nanheyan Dajie and Beiheyan Dajie running north from East Chang'an Avenue to Dianmen Dongdajie follow the eastern line of the former wall. Recently the street benefited from an 8.5million yuan renovation project, the 2.4-kilometre Imperial Wall Ruins Park. Over time the area had become a jumble of unplanned low-rise buildings.  Being so close to the city centre it could have been turned over for commercial or real estate development. Instead, local needs took precedent. Incorporating environmental renewal with reminders of the area's history it opened in September 2001. As a place for residents to relax, it also creates an attractive prospect for visitors passing along this street to nearby historical sites, such as the Forbidden City.

Beyond the delightful Chang Pu He Park, at the start of the walk, are some new one-storey buildings incorporating earlier styles that made copious use of grey bricks and roof tiles, an approach encouraged in this area. The park itself begins about two blocks north on the east side. It is entered via a plaza lined with a narrow pond where black metal lampposts attempt to encapsulate the nineteenth century. Dominant is a tall granite block imbedded with a map of the Imperial City and surrounding areas during the Qing Dynasty. Strips of bronze replicate roads and prominent features, such as today's Beihai Park and theYu (Jade) River, which formerly flowed north to south just inside the wall.

The winding stone-paved path heads through a pleasant garden landscape incorporating various trees from evergreen pines to deciduous varieties offering autumn colours and spring blossoms. Indeed there are more than 2,000 species of trees and plants within the park. To the west are the grey rooftops of Nanchizi, a beautifully restored part of the Imperial City.

Past another pleasant square is the park's principal attraction sitting on either side of Dong'anmendajie running west to the Forbidden City's Donghuamen Gate. Here, there is a pair of sunken squares feature excavated remains of the former 15^th century Eastern Peace Gate (Dong'anmen). This is a place to spend some time for there is so much information on display.

Along a granite-paved wall in the south square are large black marble slabs etched in gold. Depicted in considerable detail is life as it was in and around the area during the 18th century reign of Emperor Qianlong. Outside the peaceful siheyuan (courtyard houses), the scene is one of vital street activity as traders vie for business while porters struggle with heavy loads on shoulder poles alongside the gentry being carried in sedan chairs. Delightful teahouses appear as relaxing, although exclusive, places for some to look down on life below. Indeed on the street someone serves medicinal tea to pedestrians from a giant copper kettle. 

The mural shows the route from Donghuamen Gate passing over the palace moat before leaving the Imperial City by way of the arched Huang'an Bridge across the Yu River at the Dong'an Gate. This gate is shown as having three great doors.

Foundation stones of the gate, the bridge and remains of the original road surface are on view while glass walkways allow close-up inspections of the remains. Informative bi-lingual signs tell of the history and construction of the gate.

The street heading east from the bridge to Wangfujing is now a popular night snack venue with dozens of kiosks selling freshly cooked delicacies.

The northern square replicates many of the previously examined excavations beneath its main attraction, a grand map with, again, gold etchings on black stone. This, based on one dating from the reign of Emperor Qianlong, allows a fascinating comparison with a present-day city plans. Apart from the obvious harmony of the Forbidden City's buildings, it shows the eastern gates and the crossings over the Yu River.

After the square the trail winds through forested gardens where willow branches droop over the path. The blend of species creates an aesthetic atmosphere, particularly pleasant at the frequent small squares, paved with black stones and grey granite slabs, where the elderly relax or look after their grandchildren.

Narrow Dengshikou Xijie and Decaochang Lane are crossed. To the east are picturesque images of Old Beijing, thriving hutong that remain despite being so close to modern Wangfujing. They are active local communities surrounding markets, where piles of winter cabbages can be seen resting against grey-painted buildings.  In contrast, next to them on Donghuangchenggan Nanjie are modern, grey-metal fronted offices.

Soon a small square is reached. On a metal bench sits a beautiful girl, mobile phone around her neck, she is working away at her laptop computer. Leaning over the bench, staring in curiosity through his heavy circular spectacles at her technology is a goatee-bearded man with his hair tied in a long pigtail. In 19^th century costume, he clutches a bundle of papers while holding a fan behind his back.

Both are symbols of an art form spreading throughout the city - metallic sculptures of everyday past and present life.

To the north is a gem of a square. Around stone circular tables today's local people, surrounded by attentive crowds, play cards or chess. Nearby is a fabulous bronze statue depicting 19^th century life. In deep concentration a man and girl play chess beside a doorway. Meanwhile another man leans out from the door's window transfixed at their game. In keeping with this recreated feel of Old Beijing are the neighbouring hutong, some with repainted walls and re-tiled roofs.

Leading from the square is an enclosed walkway of green wooden beams around and over which vegetation has curled. Natural rock sculpting adds fascination to the scene.

Running along Nanheyan Dajie is a narrow linear embankment of attractive flowerbeds. Along the top are many small fountains. This culminates, at the north end, in a waterfall where the stream cascades over an inlaid sculpture of the Great Wall. The contrast makes it hard to feel that this is right in Beijing's city centre.

Busy Wuxi Dajie is reached where Nanheyan Dajie gives way to Beiheyan Dajie. The route now descends through one of the city's finest underpasses. It is spotlessly clean and is lined with metallic depictions of some of the area's fine attractions. These include the Ancient Observatory at Jianguomen and the Yonghegong Lama Temple. Behind the Forbidden City a modern high-rise city looms. Old Beijing's courtyard houses are there alongside Wangfujing's St. Joseph's Cathedral. Indeed that street's shopping precinct from Sun Dong An to the Oriental Plaza occupies a long stretch of wall. There is so much more to marvel at down there.

Exiting on the north side there is a metal sculpture resembling a newspaper page. This commemorates the 1919 movement against the unfair Treaty of Versailles, a turning point in China's 20^th century history. Among the images depicted on the statue is a young Mao Zedong who worked at that time as an assistant librarian in the red brick building, affectionately known as honglou, sitting just to the west across the road. This is the original site of Beijing University.

Continuing north, structures on either side of the park are either modern or reminders of the area's past. Grey brick former academic buildings from the early 20^th century contrast with the contemporary Export and Import Bank of China that incorporates traditional Chinese style in its roof design. One courtyard house here has been converted into the delightful Broken Tree Bar, which offers books, movies, coffee and beer to its customers.

The contrasts continue. Areas of dense vegetation, some with deep red leaves, have grown up alongside fine landscaped areas of flowerbeds and rose bushes. On the grass, beneath tall trees, lies a sequence of large spherical steel objects, a modern art form that seems now to be a popular backdrop for personal photos.

Crossing Daqudeng Lane there is a fine modern building incorporating many traditional features. This teahouse has a display in its circular windows of ceramic teapots seemingly carved from tree branches. One interior wall holds a mural illustrating many of the city's great historical attractions. People often engage in taiji in the adjoining square.

The walk ends at Dianmen Dajie, part of the east-west Ping'an (Peace) Avenue. To the east of a square is a rebuilt section of the crimson Imperial City Walls with exposed brickwork showing construction methods. All about, young and old fly kites during the day, while community dancing takes over at night. The former Imperial City has become a wonderful world for the ordinary people and visitors to Beijing.

 

Follow Bruce's explorations of Beijing most weekday mornings on Radio Beijing's AM 774 "City Rhythm" Programme at 8-10 a.m. (Medium Wave/AM 774)