The Fragrant Hills: History & Natural Beauty

Throughout history mountains have attracted and inspired. Reaching to the sky they are closer to heaven and so an obvious site for temples. Being areas of natural beauty they have also become the playground for those seeking the Great Outdoors.

Although metropolitan Beijing is mostly flat, a cyclist's paradise, the city boasts a fine range of mountains around its northern and western edges. One area where imperial and monastic history is blended in a lovely naturalistic setting is Xiang Shan Gongyuan or Fragrant Hills Park.

Easily reached by public transport, this popular recreational area features an excellent series of clearly marked paths and a chairlift allows visitors to select pleasant low-level, tranquil forest or strenuous hill walking.

From the bus station at Xiang Shan village, Biyunsi Lu leads directly to the North Entrance and is lined with small restaurants and vendors selling laminated cards of Xiang Shan's famous autumnal red leaves. Beyond the entrance, which resembles a Great Wall watchtower, signs point left to the park's attractions and right to the adjacent Biyun Si, the Azure Clouds Temple

This temple is a gem. Originally called Biyun Nunnery it was first constructed during the Yuan Dynasty. Enlarged twice in the Ming and again during the Qing under the direction of Emperor Qianlong, its six courtyards rise one after another up a forested mountain slope.

It is approached along a tree-lined drive leading to stone steps guarded by the traditional twin lions. An army of rooftop figurines protects the crimson walled entrance while wind chimes adorn its roof eaves.

A bridge between groves of tall bamboo and scattered pines leads to the Ming Dynasty Mountain Gate Hall, home to fearsome deities 'Heng and Ha'. Arms raised ready to strike, they continue to protect the temple. In an adjacent courtyard overlooked by two bell towers moon gates open to secluded gardens.

Steps continue up to a small hall containing a 2.5 metre high copper statue of a sitting Maitreya Buddha. Behind is a delightful courtyard where a fine marble bridge spans a pond -  'The Pool for Freeing Captive Fish'. Most Buddhist temples have such ponds for the first of the 'Five Precepts of Buddhism' states that no living thing is to be killed. During the Ming Dynasty, regular visitor Emperor Wanli would stop to feed the creatures swimming there. Today many goldfish - some red, some yellow, some ancient and huge - crowd the waters.

Beyond, two stone columns stand in front of the Hall of Lokapalas. Inside sits a grand statue of Buddha Sakyamuni with two flanking Bodhisattvas. The walls are adorned with scenes of cloud-capped mountains in front of which 18 religious disciples are in different positions of meditation. One strokes a small tiger while another has a dragon's head at his feet.

Protected by miniature lions the golden Sakyamuni, with hand raised, wears a blue head cover. Behind, a female disciple faces towards the next courtyard. There, buildings overlooked by the forested slopes become larger and grander. A small wooden structure encloses a stele with characters in Chinese and Manchu. Beyond is the Hall of Bodhisattvas containing five Buddha statues together with sitting beasts including a blue lion, a unicorn, a white elephant and many other more exotic forms. Outside, the stone paved courtyards are delightful for just letting time pass.

Through an eastern gate the 18th century Luohan or 'Hall of Disciples' is an amazing treasure trove of rare religious art. Inside are 500 unique figures, all 1.5 metres high and covered in gold paint, but nevertheless seeming to convey individual personalities and characteristics.

Back on the main axis, the next area is dedicated to the memory of Dr Sun Yat Sen. Indoor displays tell of his life and the carrying of his body to the temple on March 12 1925 before being taken to his final resting place, Nanjing, in 1929. In the central hall sits a fine marble statue of the late national statesman and some of his effects. His body was placed in the last building of the temple, the grand 34.7 metre high marble Diamond Throne Pagoda (jingang baozuo ta) erected in 1748.

Bearing a striking resemblance to Bodhgaya Temple in India it is reached by a steep climb up to a fine stone three-arch 'pailou' gate topped with dragons. From the base of the pagoda stairs and interior passages lead to the roof with its group of square and flask-shaped stupas (small pagodas). Some are topped with metal umbrellas and all are lined with an astonishing collection of carved Buddhist images. An amazing nine-branched tree called the 'Fire Dragon Cypress' grows there.

From the Pagoda there are fine views of surrounding hills, temple buildings and the route back down to the park entrance.

Beyond the North gate (and past the chairlift to the 557 metre high Incense Burner Peak) an avenue lined with trees and flowerbeds leads to Spectacles (yanjing) Lake, so named because a curved marble bridge spans two semi-circular pools. Drooping willows hang over the peaceful waters disturbed only by fish rising. Rocks around the edge are good vantage points to people-watch, while a red wood pavilion is somewhere to relax away from the sun. Water flows over a man-made cliff breached with short passageways; exploring the same an irresistible attraction to children.

Just above (follow the startling sound of their calls) is a net-covered peacock enclosure. This is home to about 100 fine and well-cared-for birds. 5 yuan allows access and a bowl of bird food. Some have short tails and green necks but most are blue with stunning green feathers incorporating azure and brown circular patterns. Some peacocks seem to delight in all the attention, fully extending their display plumage while others follow the visitor in search of food.

Two minutes away, across a bridge is the delightful Jian Xin Zhai Hai (Pavilion of Introspection). Built during Ming emperor Jialing's reign in 1522 it was enlarged in 1796. A series of red wood elegant teahouses rises above a semi-circular pond protected by a tall grey wall followed by a traditional wooden corridor. Literally hundreds of gold fish constantly splash about for food thrown by excited visitors.

Stone paths lead up to the partly restored Temple of Brilliance (Zhao Miao) sadly ransacked by western troops in 1860 and 1900. Entered through a three-arched pailou the crimson buildings shows Tibetan influence in design. Indeed, it was built for the visit of the 6th Panchen Lama to Emperor Qianlong in 1780.

Higher up on a small ridge is attractive Liuli Pagoda, covered with yellow and green glazed tiles; bells dangle from its eaves.

The surrounding wooded area formerly contained many pavilions and shrines. Some are being restored today and the trails make delightful walking. Great care has gone into the landscaping with a fine variety of trees set amidst rolling lawns and manicured flowerbeds.

Signs point to the Xiang Shan Temple. Sadly it too is a mere memory of its former glory, having tragically suffered in the 19th century destruction. Dating back to the Tang Dynasty it passed through several reconstructions including those designed by Emperor Qianlong. Entered through a pailou arch, a winding commercial street once led up to another arch where the buildings became monastic. Beyond, a splendid garden reached into the hills.

Today past the restored arch a marble bridge leads to a long series of steps leading through the remaining foundations.

Paths lead back down through gardens with peach trees and tings to the seemingly hidden, though delightful, Jingcui Lake, so peaceful in its natural amphitheatre surrounded by pine trees and willows.

Signs point to Qinzhen Hall next to the park's eastern gate. Located in the Garden of Tranquillity and Appropriateness it was originally built in 1745 though destroyed in 1860. Carefully restored in 2003 it is now again resplendent in red wood and gold etchings.

The central Hall of Diligent Government contains a replica golden throne with porcelain blue lions on either side. There, emperors formerly received guests and held court.  The eastern hall features an interactive display of the park's contemporary attractions. Its western neighbour illustrates the area's history. A large model testifies to the scale of late 19th destruction. Replicated in miniature are the former temples and pavilions. Behind a long horizontal historical painting presents an impression of the Western Hills seen from behind the Summer Palace.

A more modern attraction in Xiang Shan is the chairlift from the North Gate. On a fine day it is a pleasant way to reach the craggy summit of Incense Burner Peak, and certainly not as strenuous as the energetic and often steep walk to the same point. Rising gently above the forested valley, sometimes almost at tree top level, the 18-minute ride offers grand views over the Glazed Pagoda and other elegant buildings. Away below to the right is Biyun Si. With very little mechanical sound, the cry of the peacocks below mixes with greeting calls from fellow passengers or hikers on the parallel trail. Trees appear to lean in to the slope although near the summit they give way to scrub and bare rock.

Viewing pavilions provide panoramic views over the neighbouring hills and the city stretching towards the horizon. In the middle distance a solitary pagoda sits on a small peak overlooking Kunming Lake and the Summer Palace.

Good trails allow pleasant walking around and from the summit; even if you've already walked up one way you could choose a totally different path down. The wide stone-paved way down leads back through woodland rich with the aroma of pine. This ultimately leads to Spectacle Lake or alternatively the East Gate. However, an unpaved path heads off to the right about five minutes after the first kiosk below the summit. This offers lovely walking away from the crowds. The views over the forest are extensive, particularly from isolated rocky cliff tops. Eventually a stone trail is reached. It zigzags steeply down to an attractive pavilion near the Xiang Shan Hotel. The hotel is a modern wonder of the park, designed by Bei Yuming whose work includes the famous pyramid at the Louvre in Paris.

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History in Brief

This former royal hunting ground with history stretching back to 1168 is also home to a tranquil 14th century temple. Much of the park's layout is credited to Emperor Qianlong, and dates to 1745.  Severely damaged by English and French troops in 1860 and 1900, it survives today as a feature packed public park.

Getting There

From Pinguoyuan subway station, Minibus 23 runs directly to Xiang Shan village.
From Xizhimen subway station, Bus 904 runs to and from Xiang Shan village.
If you are driving, take the Xiang Shan (Fragrant Hills) Exit from the NW 5th Ring Road.
In a taxi, instruct the driver to take you to: Xiang Shan.

Entrance Costs

Park: 10 yuan.
Biyun Temple: 10 yuan.
Chairlift: 30 yuan.

Dining

Several restaurants serving Chinese food are in the park and many smaller restaurants line the roads outside.  Serving great coffee and other cafe food, 'Sculpting In Time' is near the East Gate and 'Being Yourself' has a nice location on Biyunsi Lu.