Beijing's Ming Tombs: New Life Breathed into Legendary Necropolis

The final resting place of 13 legendary Chinese emperors has continued to fascinate and intrigue millions of visitors down the centuries. Lying only 50 km northwest of Beijing, the Ming Tombs once again find themselves under the spotlight as part of a massive renovation programme that will pick up speed in the run-up to Beijings 2008 Olympic Games.

The tombs have long provided a magnetic attraction for students of feng shui, the Chinese system of good and evil influences in our environment often used in the siting and design of buildings. This unique 40-square-kilometre necropolis is a must-see for anyone wanting to get an understanding of the role of death and its rituals in Chinese culture. And spring is perhaps the perfect time to pay a lingering, thought-provoking visit to this auspiciously located cultural treasure.

For the Ming, the spirits of the ancestors could and would intervene to guide the lives of their descendants, but only if their gravesites (ling) and bodies were treated with the requisite care and respect by surviving family members. Ancestral spirits were also believed to have all the regular needs of corporeal life, so each tomb is, in many ways, a miniature royal palace. Replete with royal regalia, utensils, and - in the earlier tombs - immolated attendants for the emperor, everything was planned carefully to ensure imperial desires were met in the afterlife.

Construction on the first of these royal mausoleums began in 1409 with the building of Chang Ling, the largest of the 13 tombs. The placement, form, and surroundings of this and all later tombs was guided by the set of feng shui principles for, literally, the eternal homes of the dead. Mountains to the north guard against the evil spirits that come with the north wind. An open plain to the southern sun encourages the fragrant apple and pear groves planted there to lend their gentle sweet scent Чto the warmed air. Many free-flowing streams also feed the area: access to water, of course, was considered essential to a good location in the afterlife. Knowledge of even the basics of geomancy - the art of sitting buildings auspiciously - can dramatically enhance a trip to the Ming Tombs, as it can transform a merely pretty vista into a meaningful interaction between architecture, ancient trees, and the surrounding mountains. One of the most striking examples is the view through the stone archway at the very south of the Sacred Way.

Looking to the north, slightly obscured by modern tree plantings (go in early spring or late autumn for the best effect) one can see an absolutely perfect framing of the northern mountain range captured (and thus entreated to serve its guardian duty) within the five portals of the archway. In fact at every turn,in every scene framed accidentally (it seems) by a wall, a door, or a grove of trees, and in the expression of every curving wall is a grand design serving as a constant reminder of the most important guiding principle of feng shui.That is, of course, that man is but a part of nature.

The Thirteen Ming Tombs (Shisan Ling) were built to last, but relied on the dutiful devotion of royal descendants. When the Ming Dynasty fell away in 1644 to be replaced by the Qing (1644-1911), the deterioration of the tombs began. Not even the famous poems in the much-admired calligraphy of Emperor Qianlong, which extolled the beauty of the area, and that even today grace some of the largest steles in China, could hold back the ravages of time.

While on the topic of calligraphy, it is worth mentioning in passing that the Ming Tombs are a veritable treasure trove of different calligraphic styles, periods, and fashions. On the larger steles, three or more styles - sometimes even different scripts - compete for attention. Although post-Ming rulers of China maintained a respectful attitude towards the Thirteen Tombs, until the founding of New China (1949) they were mostly left to gracefully decay. Not until the 1959 excavation and renovation of Ding Ling were any detailed plans made for preserving these historic graves.

In part because of the huge size of the area (over 40 square kilometres), and in part because of the enormous costs involved, only three of the thirteen tombs have been formally excavated. Based on the costs of the work done so far, it is estimated that the total renovation of a tomb to the standard of Ding Ling or Chang Ling, ready for the inevitable flood of tourists, will cost 35 million - 40 million yuan (US$4.2 million - 4.8 million) in total. The central focus of each tombs renovation work is the Memorial Shrine. As the geomantic focal point, it is logical to begin here. The views in each of the four cardinal directions from any of the shrines are spectacular and significant, so they are a central part of any visit. Next on the renovator's list is anything that integrates characters (as these tolerate the wear of years very poorly.) That includes both the many stone steles, and also covers the large, often gilded lintel steles that are a feature of the architecture of both the Ming and Qing periods (1368-1911).The final stage of renovations includes the larger external structures such as the Lingen Hall at Chang Ling, which are in many cases surprisingly well preserved, largely due to the expertise of the original craftsmen, who in true Ming style selected their materials with great care. 

The master plan for the Thirteen Tombs calls for all to be open to the public as soon as possible, whilst preserving as much as possible of the area s unique historic character and taking special care to ensure that priceless treasures as yet unearthed are not destroyed in haste. In line with that plan, the Badaling-Ming Tombs Scenic Area authority planned and completed a number of smaller-scale renovations to perfect techniques and better understand the many issues involved in such delicate work.

We can see the fruits of their care in Zhao Ling, renovated between 1987 and 1992. It is the third and most recent tomb to be opened to the public. It is primarily notable for its spectacular sacrifice display in the Lingen Hall, its largely intact gates (unlike the destruction of the same at Ding Ling), and its mysterious geomantically significant Isolated Yard (yabayuan). Having learned much in the last two decades, and now that the maintenance and preservation team has been built up and is in place, work is proceeding more rapidly. One of the greatest challenges has been procuring the right materials. Nanmu softwood of high quality is unavailable, but special high-quality pine is both readily workable and safe. Fangshan District stone, used in the original construction of the tombs, is also used for the modern works.

In 1999 Xin Ling underwent renovation, and the latter half of 2003 saw both De Ling and Kang Ling massively upgraded. In 2004 the focus shifted to Qing Ling, Tai Ling, and Mao Ling. Completion is expected towards the end of the year. No plans are yet in place for the opening of these newly renovated areas. One of the main reasons for the delay is to ensure a clear understanding of the kinds of crowds expected, and the huge demand for services that will create. Currently the three visitable tombs generate summer crowds of up to 12,000, with May Day and National Day crowds reaching 20,000 per day. Whatever the eventual schedule, BTM has been assured that all 13 of the Ming Tombs will be open by 2008. One of the ways to make sure that your visit to this historic area is memorable is to take advantage of the free English tour guide service that operates all day, every day from their office near the ticket window at Ding Ling.

And try not to rush. One of the saddest tales on the China tourist trail is the one told by foreign guests rushed through the Ming Tombs at the speed of light on the way to or from the Great Wall at Badaling. The Great Wall is a place of martial prowess, a place that in ancient times marked "known" and "unknown". In striking contrast the Thirteen Ming Tombs are a restful, artfully composed arbour. A place beautiful enough for the ancestors, designed to provoke contemplation of the final unknown. Dont make the mistake of trying to understand it in an hour.

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Chang Ling Emperor Zhu Di    (1360 -1424)

Xian Ling Emperor     Zhu Gaochi    (1378 -1425)

Jing Ling Emperor     Zhu Zhanji    (1399 -1435)

Yu Ling Emperor     Zhu Qizhen    (1427 -1464)

Mao Ling Emperor     Zhu Jianshen    (1447 -1487)

Tai Ling Emperor     Zhu Youtang (1470 -1505)

Kang Ling Emperor     Zhu Houzhao (1491 -1521)

Yong Ling Emperor     Zhu Houcong (1507 -1566)

Zhao Ling Emperor     Zhu Zaihou    (1537 -1572)

Ding Ling Emperor     Zhu Yijun    (1563 -1620)

Qing Ling Emperor     Zhu Changluo    (1582 -1620)

De Ling Emperor     Zhu Youxiao (1605 -1627)

Si Ling Emperor     Zhu Youjian (1610 -1644)

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How to Get There

Special bus no.1 at Qianmen (6:30am-10:30am) will take you there directly in about one and a half hours.

Opening Hours and Tickets

Ding Ling: 8:30am-6pm;

40 yuan (low season), 60 yuan (peak)

Chang Ling: 8:30am-5:30pm;

30 yuan (low season), 45 yuan (peak)

Zhao Ling: 8:30am-5:30pm;

20 yuan (low season), 30 yuan (peak)

The Sacred Way: 8:30am-6pm

20 yuan (low season), 30 yuan (peak)

Low season: November 1 - March 31

Busy season: April 1 - October 31