Past and Present Collide in Capitals Confucian Classic

Leaving the metro station by the Southwest (C) exit, there is a hint of incense in the air. This is no coincidence for the door is actually part of the crimson walls of Yonghegong Lamasery. Its tiled roofs are lined with tiny divine stone creatures to protect the temple from devils.

The expressway in front follows the line of the former city walls, demolished in the 1960s. Beyond is Ditan Park where the emperors annually performed sacrifices before the Altar of the Earth. Turn left into Yonghegong Dajie, initially keeping close to the wall to avoid the ongoing metro construction. To the west are the yellow-tiled roofs of the Confucius Temple.

Cross over to the line of small shops. The temple attracts hoards of visitors and in response these shops are full of powerful incense sticks, Buddhist statues, thankas (Tibetan religious tapestries depicting various stages of Buddhist heavenly life), musical instruments, prayer wheels and even tins of yak butter. On sale also are local curios including teapots, replicas of early lamps, drinking vessels and paintings. A few smart boutiques retail fashionable clothes cut in traditional Chinese styles.

Across the street is a spectacular view of the lamasery's golden roofs. Combined with the ever-present sound of tranquil Buddhist music, it is easy to momentarily drift into a spiritual world somewhere on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau!

The first alley on the right leads into the fascinating world of the hutongs. This area has fine examples of Beijing's earlier domestic architecture. Many important and lesser officials of the Imperial court lived in siheyuan, or courtyard houses, where the outside door was not simply an entrance but a signature as to the status of the inhabitants. Regulations dictated their size,

shape, colour and many surrounding features. Indeed, if a person lived behind a door higher than their status they could be in serious trouble. Compare two doors close to the alley's entrance.

The first wooden door, painted red, was possibly the home of a small official, for it is a narrow structure, virtually flush with the building's exterior and has only two hexagonal poles protruding from the top beam. Look closely at the pair of stone piers either side of the entrance. Piers symbolically conveyed wishes for happiness, harmony, longevity and wealth. Their size and shape also indicated importance. Here, although lions lie on top, the blocks are rectangular and not very ornate.

Walk a few paces and look at the fourth entrance on the right. It is about three times larger and slightly recessed into the wall. Five steps lead up to a larger red painted door with a tall lintel all held in a wooden frame with four protruding upper poles. The stone piers are larger, circular and topped with frog-like creatures. Carvings below the roof show deer hidden in a forest.

Return to the main street. Walk south before crossing over to the arched entrance of the lamasery. Its crimson walls and yellow tiled roofs contrast with the universally grey hutongs, the colour for anyone not of nobility.

Yonghegong, being an active place of worship, is one of the most colourful of the city's temples. Built in 1694 it was the residence of Prince Yin Zhen. In 1723 he became emperor, changing his name to Yong Zheng, subsequently moving to the Forbidden City. His former residence was renamed Yong He Gong or 'Palace of Eternal Harmony'. Its previously green tiles were replaced by imperial yellow. Chinese custom also dictated that after accession it could only be used as a temple, so in 1744 it became a lamasery. In 1792 his son, Emperor Qianlong  (1736 1796), made it a centre for learning for the Yellow Hat Sect of Tibetan Buddhism.

Three ornate arches or pailou dominate the entrance courtyard where a tall screen wall prevents incursion by evil spirits. The lamasery, a mixture of Chinese, Tibetan and Mongolian styles, is built in harmony along a north-south axis where each of the five main halls is taller than the preceding one.

Approached through a garden corridor is a courtyard containing the Bell and Drum Tower. Ahead is the Hall of Heavenly Kings (Tianwangdian) where a statue of the Future Buddha (Maitreya) is protected by celestial guardians. Next is Eternal Harmony Hall (Yonghedian) with statues of the past, present and future Buddha. Crossing the next courtyard the Hall of Eternal Protection (Yongyoudian) contains images of the Buddhas of Longevity and Medicine.

Even more fascinating is the Hall of the Wheel of Law (Falundian) in the middle of which is a six-metre-high statue of Tsong Khapa, founder of Buddhism's Yellow Hat sect. Behind the statue is a miniature sandalwood mountain containing 500 gold, silver, copper, iron and tin figures.

Every morning in this hall, lamas hold prayer, chanting and reading services. Their maroon robes and yellow hats are neatly folded on the long carpeted benches. Finally, the three-storey Pavilion of Ten Thousand Happiness (Wanfuge) is reached. Inside is an 18-metre-tall Maitreya Buddha carved from a single piece of sandalwood brought from Tibet.

Yonghegong should be taken slowly for every corner holds a new image. Monks fingering beads wander past worshippers holding bundles of glowing incense sticks, bowing in prayer. Large elaborately decorated burners outside the halls hold candles or embers of aromatic wood. The temple's treasures are magnificent and information boards offer English translations.

Opposite Yonghegong is a beautiful tree-lined street, Guozijian. From an historical perspective, this is one of the nation's most important avenues for from here emerged many of the laws based on Confucian Theory that were fundamental to life in China at that time.

In keeping with the gridiron pattern of Old Beijing, this street runs east-to-west while the important buildings are on its north side facing south. An ornate arch with gold calligraphy on a blue background bearing the characters 'Cheng Xian Jie' (becoming a saint) guards its entrance. Its red wooden legs are buried into square marble blocks with fading ornate carvings.

Many grey buildings with their sloping roofs of interlocking tiles again illustrate the exterior telltale signs of former domestic hierarchy. Slowly look at the variety of stone piers and door designs. Some homes are built above street level, as though on platforms. This facilitated ease of transfer from horses or coaches so avoiding contact with mud from formerly unsealed roads.

This is still a living community where many older men still hang out bamboo birdcages while chatting in small groups.

Adjacent to a colourful blue- and gold-painted arch is the Confucius Temple (Kongmiao) built during the Yuan Dynasty (1206-1368). Next to that at Qufu, his birthplace in Shandong, it is the country's second largest Confucian temple. Beneath its high crimson walls topped with green tiles, a large marble stele, supported by four large upright stones, is inscribed in Chinese, Tibetan and Mongolian. In keeping with the temples north-to-south layout, an imposing crimson screen wall protects the entrance.

Through The Gate of the First Teacher (Xianshimen) are courtyards shaded by pine trees. There stand 188 stone tablets bearing the names of scholars who passed the imperial examinations. Beyond the Gate of Great Achievement (Dachengmen) are eleven pavilions containing steles relating to Qing military expeditions. Ahead are two flights of stone stairs separated by a marble plaque display. One dragon plays with a pearl while another spews out mist. Above is the Hall of Great Achievements (Dachengdian), surrounded by a light stone balustrade. Inside is a memorial to Confucius while behind, honouring his ancestors, stands the Shrine of the Great Wise Man (Chongshengci). Part of the temple today forms the Capital Museum.

Adjacent to the Temple is the Imperial College and Library whose wide wooden entrance is protected by a grey brick screen wall. Built in 1306 it has been expanded many times, reaching its present size during the time of Emperor Qianlong. Originally called Taixue, it was renamed Guozijian during the Tang Dynasty. After restoration in 1949, it became the library for Beijing.

Being the highest school in Old China it provided training courses for the difficult Palace Examination. Graduates received the title of Jinshi or 'Scholar' and usually entered the civil service.

The glazed Gate of Highest Learning (taixuemen) lies beyond the entrance standing between a drum and bell tower. Marble bridges lead to a square pavilion, the Jade Disk Hall (biyong) built in 1784. Crowned with a golden ball it sits in the centre of a round pool. There, the emperor, sitting on a dragon chair, explained the classics to civil and military officials. Today it displays some fascinating photographs and maps of Old Beijing. In neighbouring exhibition rooms, 189 stone tablets containing 630,000 characters carry the text of 13 Chinese classics. This 18th century work took 20 years to complete!

Outside the college, another fine archway leads to the street where ordinary people live.

Some old buildings are undergoing renovation while newer structures, in keeping with local design, have been restricted to a single-storey height. One entrance with a semicircular doorway and imitation carved windows has the appearance of once being a small temple.

Newer courtyard homes are evident from their fine doors imitating those previously reserved for the high imperial officials － bright red with finely crafted brass door knobs designed like lion heads. Wooden beams, meanwhile, illustrate traditional landscapes. Some have ornate marble dragons guarding their entrance. One, number 33, has a double-dragon design inlaid in pebbles on its forecourt.

An archway marks the end of the historical street. Ahead is Andingmen Nei Dajie, bustling with commercial activities and a world away from the imperial history of tranquil Guozijian. Turn right and you will arrive at the site of the once great An Ding Men (peaceful gate) on the former city walls. The metro station is on the north side.