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Article featured in Beijing This Month, December 2002
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English 1000, Chinese 1000

Shanghai-City for all Seasons

2002/12/01

Geologists will tell you that Shanghai is built on land once submerged by the sea. Historians note it was a fishing village 700 years ago that has evolved into a modern metropolis. Philosophers see it as a melting pot of ever-changing ideologies, while politicians identify it as the birthplace of the Communist Party of China.

To the surprise of many, Shanghai was also once known as a paradise for foreign adventurers -a swinging place which in the 1930s became known as the "Paris of the East". We at BTM simply tell you it is again an ideal city in which to enjoy your modern Christmas break.

The city is located on the east central coast, a location that puts it at the crossroads of the Yangtze River economic belt and the coastal economic zone. Thus it plays a major role in linking the Chinese hinterlands with rest of the world, and is established as the business and commercial heart of the nation. It is also a vital transportation hub for eastern China and an important area in the development of science and technology. None of its cultural strength has been lost during its transformation into a modern metropolis.

Attractions for visitors abound at almost every turn. Boat trips up the Huangpu River to the confluence with the Yangtze River provide stunning views of the Bund-central Shanghai's most famous artery-and a huge diversity of boats and other craft in the port.

Much of recent architecture reflects Shanghai's European heritage, notably in the former French Concession. Today, its tree-lined residential streets are notable for dwellings with redbrick roofs and the occasional large garden. Westerners often feel they are not in China at all when they glimpse a perfect copy of a turn-of-the-century mansion through a wrought-iron gate, or a street of townhouses seemingly transplanted direct from London.

Churches have been restored and returned to their original use, including the handsome twin-towered St. Ignatius Cathedral, built by the Jesuits in 1906 and closed during the Cultural Revolution.

The Russian Orthodox Church, however, has reinvented itself as an elegant restaurant, as have several other colonial buildings from the 1920s and 30s. Two former Soong family mansions on Hengshan Lu have been converted into bar/restaurant complexes, while other eateries such as Le Garcon Chinois recreate the feel of 1920s Shanghai. In charming Fuxing Park, a cluster of Hong Kong's Lan Kwai Fong restaurants and bars have come together in one small complex.

Shoppers will find that Shanghai has much to offer in its lively bazaars, such as the antiques market on Dongtai Lu and Sunday market in the five-story pagoda on the corner of Fangbang and Henan Lu. The antiques here are mostly from the late Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). Merchants do not issue receipts, so shoppers should examine their goods carefully before buying. In Yuan Bazaar, old Cathay shops sell everything from chopsticks, fans, umbrellas and paper lanterns to walking sticks, scissors and theatrical costumes.

Nanjing Road boasts shiny new department stores, specialty shops and fashion boutiques but has been overtaken in the style stakes by Huaihai Road, which rivals New York's Fifth Avenue. International labels run riot because Shanghainese can now afford to satisfy their love of style. In the Pudong area, Nextage-a joint venture between Japan's Yaohan and Shanghai Number 1-is the largest department store in Asia and second-largest in the world after Macy's. Hongqiao, meanwhile, boasts a particularly sophisticated Friendship Store.

Shanghai has long claimed to be the leader in China's fashion and just about anything else to do with style and entertainment. Today, as in pre-World War II days, fashion shows abound, with international designers flying in to show their latest creations.
The city's nightlife is as vibrant as ever it was, giving locals and visitors a choice of hundreds of clubs, discos and hip bars. "Musts" for tourists include a drink at the Peace Hotel, where its elderly but ageless jazz band has played as long as anyone can remember.



 
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