Hutongs Mirror Old Beijing

The Chinese word hutong can mean street, lane or alley. In Mongolia's Khalkha language, it's also the word for "water well" and which couples a well or spring with the presence of people dwelling nearby.

Despite hutong-clearance programs to make way for modern high-rises, Beijing still has literally thousands of these ancient byways, many of which are too narrow for even a small car to squeeze through. This is part of their charm, for the usually tiny houses they contain are a true reflection of Old Beijing as well as being the family homes of many modern Beijingers.

At the height of the Yuan Dynasty (1206-1341), emperors established their supreme power by planning a chessboard layout for the city, and arranging its residential areas according to some of the plans of former dynasties. Thus Beijing's (or rather the then Peking's) city center was the royal palace - the Forbidden City.

One type of hutong, usually referred to as "regular", was established close to - and east and west of - the palace, with dwellings arranged in orderly fashion. At that time, most of their residents were imperial kinsmen and aristocrats. Simple, crudely built hutongs were mainly located far to the north and south of the palace, their occupants being merchants and ordinary people. Today, most of Beijing's remaining hutongs are well-maintained, though bearing their own characteristics such as brightly colored front doors to houses. A few hutongs are zig-zag in layout, one being Jiudaowan (Nine-turn Lane). In fact, it has more than 20 turns.

A hutong's origin can usually be worked out from its name, based as it is on location or historical, commercial or cultural history. And these days, due to their popularity among Chinese as well as foreign tourists as a glimpse of the past, they number among cultural attractions.

Currently, hutong dwellers are largely the elderly, whose recollections of the old days and their lifestyles fascinate visitors and provide a unique window on the city's folk life and lore. Some local people even consider hutongs to be the "encyclopedias of Beijing" or "museums of the history and culture of Beijing".

Tourism officials say that anyone wanting to properly get to know Beijing and its native people should visit a hutong and, if possible, live in one for a while with its occupants. Among things that would be confirmed is that many famous operas and dramas are based on events in hutong life. Many celebrities continue to reside in them, including Lao She, Lu Xun and Guo Moruo.

The majority of hutongs are located in and around the center of Beijing, and are best explored in daytime. You can either take a guided tour aboard a pedicab (180 yuan per person), or hire your own pedicab (negotiate cost with driver before setting out) and explore by yourself or with friends.