Changing Face of Beijing Architecture

Visitors might sometimes wonder at Beijing's mixed architecture. While modern and "international" buildings are mushrooming at stunning speed, nor is it hard to find boring, old-fash-ioned structures visible from main streets, and--a seeming contradiction--many historic piles hidden quietly away in hutongs. If you look into the tales behind these buildings, which simply reflect their time, you cannot fail to be impressed.

In addition to classical palaces and gardens, which are often hundreds of years old, newcomers to the architectural scene are designed to blend in beautifully with all that has gone before. As many a visiting foreign architect has noted, the merging of ancient and modern is something of which Beijing can be very proud. A perfect marriage, it can be said.

Early 20th Century-'East Meets West'

The invasion of China by foreign powers in the late 19th century took away the treasures of the most splendid Oriental culture of the time, largely substituting it with their questionable Occidental influence.

The best example of the devastation was the embassy district at Dongjiaominxiang Street, lined with low buildings and courtyards in the various styles of their own mother countries. Most of those buildings are now government offices, one such being the former Japanese legation, now among buildings used by Beijing Municipal Government. Another is the classical building of Tsinghua University, built in 1918.

Meanwhile, there arose a few buildings in largely traditional Chinese style but with a western influence. Peking University, designed in 1919 by an American architect, was built around Weiming Lake, with its buildings positioned along a central axis. Most of these have a large, pitched roof, with walls and windows also western style. Similar architecture can be found at the Union Hospital, built in 1906-1928.

1950s-Breaking the Architectural Mold

When New China was founded in 1949, Beijing was still a gray city whose architecture was dominated by low-level siheyuan (quadrangle courtyards) which enclosed equally smallish residences. Demand for huge office floor spaces and public facilities led to a rapid rise in signature buildings, whose styles tended to be simple and functional due to the economic situation of the time.

The Peace Hotel, designed by Chinese architect Yang Tingbao, was regarded as the first modern building in Beijing. He bravely ignored the popular idea of a large pitched roof, opting for a modern style and its accompanying techniques. His approach paid off, and the Peace Hotel was acknowledged as a "Landmark of Modern Chinese Architecture".China's first five-year plan was launched in 1953, heralding an ambitious construction plan based on Soviet aid and heavy industry. Soviet influence dominated Chinese life until the late 1950s, especially in architecture (where it prevails in cities such as Dalian).

Meanwhile, Chinese architects started to explore "socialist realism" and "traditional styles", the result being the building of lofty landmarks such as the Friendship Hotel (1954, Baishiqiao Lu); the Ministries' Office Buildings (1954, Sanlihe); Beijing Planetarium (1957, Xizhimenwai); Beijing Telegraph Building (1958, Chang'an Avenue); the CPPCC Buildings (1955, Taipingqiao Dajie); Wangfujing Department Store (1954, Wangfujing Dajie); and Beijing Capital Theater (1955, Wangfujing).

Outstanding Architectural Merit

During the "Great Leap Forward" period, which erupted all over China in 1958, many other grand buildings were erected, seemingly overnight. Notable among those of outstanding architectural merit in Beijing were a Top 10, made up by the Great Hall of People; Chinese Museum of Revolutionary History; Chinese History Museum; Chinese Military Museum; National Agricultural Museum; Beijing Workers' Stadium; Diaoyutai State Guest House; Cultural Palace of Chinese Minorities; Beijing Railway Station; and Beijing Minzu Hotel.

The architectural grandeur and daring of these buildings fully reflected the growing strength of New China and the power of its people, encouraged as they were by the Great Leap Forward under the guidance of Chairman Mao Zedong. In architectural terms, they truly deserved to be among the Top 10. The Great Hall of People, for example, is a perfect blend of the imposing classical Roman influence and Chinese traditional decoration.

1960s-1970s: Tunnel Visions ...

Few buildings of particular note emerged during this period, except perhaps the China Art Gallery (1962); Beijing Workers' Gymnasium (1961); Beijing Hotel (1974); and Chairman Mao's Mausoleum in Tian'anmen Square (1977). There was a particular dearth of architectural breakthroughs and innovative ideas, especially during the notorious Cultural Revolution (1966-1976).

Conversely, in an episode that seems largely lost in the rush of today's enthusiasm for high-rises, underground construction was carried out at full speed, with virtually every Beijinger participating in demolition of the old city walls and the building of an underground tunnel network all over the capital.

At that time, the dominant policy of Chairman Mao was "digging deep the tunnels, store grains and no hegemony", with the whole Chinese nation urged to build tunnels to combat a Soviet invasion. The tunnels were later turned into the loop line, and first line, of Beijing's subway system. The magnificent city walls, alas, apart from a few fragments, were lost for ever.

1980s-1990s: Beijing Goes International

The opening and reform policy changed the face of China and the lives of its people in every respect. Architects began to seriously study western architecture, and new ideas were introduced to city construction. Hotels quickly became the best examples of avante garde architecture. But while essentially western in design, they were--and as those who followed still are--each larded with Chinese characteristics in terms of their high-quality services and decoration.

The first success was scored by the Xiangshan Hotel at Fragrant Hills, designed by famed Hong Kong architect I.M. Pei. The hotel combines courtyard and garden styles, enhanced by the harmonious addition of diamond-shaped windows and other unique touches. Built in 1988, Beijing International Hotel in "Golden Mile" Chang'an Avenue was a trend-setter in what was to become a highly competitive hospitality sector, which today embraces virtually all major 5-star international hotels.

Beijing International Hotel was a brave experiment in international design which has paid off handsomely. Also built around this time were The Palace Hotel, Hotel New Otani Changfugong, Kunlun Hotel, and Capital Hotel.

It was in the 1980s, in fact, that the Beijing Daily and Beijing Evening News jointly sponsored a local public poll to select the Top 10 buildings erected in the capital during that decade. Naturally enough, Beijing International Hotel scored high, as did the Great Wall Sheraton Hotel. The other eight buildings to receive the public accolade were:

National Library of China; China International Exhibition Hall; Central Color Television Center; Beijing Airport Terminal; Grand View Garden; China Theater; Memorial Hall for the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression; and Dongsi Shitiao Subway Station.

As yet, there has been no Top 10 poll for 1990s buildings. But readers might like to consider the following 10 that reached for the sky in the last decade of the 20th century:

CCTV Tower; National Olympic Center; New World Center; Beijing Botanical Garden; Capital Library; Library of Tsinghua University; Foreign Language Teaching and Research Press; Henderson Center; Sun Dong'an Plaza; and the International Finance Mansion.