Bringing New Meaning to 'Civil' Aviation

Current TV advertisements by Swiss International Air Lines Ltd. bid potential passengers a hearty "Welcome to civilized aviation" with the rider that its fleet of almost 130 long-, medium- and short-haul aircraft are never less than comfortable, and their services well-organized and thorough. To which your average cynic would no doubt respond: "Well, they would say that, wouldn't they?"

Of course they would, Swiss's stance being that what the promotions say is fundamentally true, give or take the odd human mishap of a stewardess tripping over a passenger's protuding leg, or a temporary in-flight shortfall of toilet tissues. Thus my own cynical view is that cynicism does not promise to become a growth industry ...

The more important question to readers of Beijing This Month is whether Swiss really does live up to its advertisements, which is why I found myself aboard a long-haul flight to London and back. I traveled Economy outbound, and Business Class on the return trip. The test, third-degree, inquisition (call it what you will) began at Swiss's sales office on the 6th Floor of Scitech Tower in Jianguomenwai Dajie.

All fine here to be sure, civilized being the operative word, enhanced by the charm of the GM's assistant and her saleslady colleague who knew all the timetable nuts-and-bolts off the top of her head. Impressive. She even suggested I fly into London's City Airport on the banks of the River Thames rather than London Heathrow because she knew I was heading for my home county of Essex. For me, perfect, and probably to many other UK-bound Beijingers and expatriates as well.

We all dread changing 'planes at large airports because, all too often, signage is inadequate and confusion reigns. Not so at Zurich, a major airline crossroads, which has the passenger-transfer business down to a fine art. As always, my switchover went like clockwork thanks to the finely-honed process. The passenger barely has to think.

Overall, the food and drinks on the two outward legs were well thought out, the first pleasant surprise being the welcoming bottle of water in the seat pocket, a service unique to Swiss. Lunch embraced an aperitif, a choice of two hot main meals, with salad; dessert and coffee/tea. Generous second portions were available. Cutlery was of steel, praise be, and even though it's Economy you have your own glass (plus convenient glass holder on the back of the seat in front) for the Robert Mondavi wines. It's all nicely rounded off with, what else, Swiss chocolate.

My return to Beijing from London's City Airport promised to be a gloomy affair--an early Monday morning when my spirits tend to hover around the mood marked depressive. Mondays and me have never got on. But the sunny dawn helped a bit, greatly reinforced by the Swiss reception desk's pressie of a handsome meal voucher, which I converted into breakfast at the airport's charming coffee shop.

It was the same at Zurich, whose Business Class lounge is among the best and most welcoming I have ever used. Lots of scrumptious snacks, a good choice of drinks, wide-screen telly, plenty of reading material and some nice views.

Swiss's Business Class cuisine kicks off with a timely glass of Pol Roger champagne, fresh orange juice or mineral water. The dinner menu offers a rich choice that includes king prawns, poached sliced veal, seasonal salad, grilled steak, paupiettes of trout, sauteed chicken, gnocchi piemontese with gorgonzola, and a luscious selection of cheeses with grapes. Dessert is a choice of mango mousse on a passion fruit coulis, or fresh strawberries and chantilly cream cake. A larger-than-usual selection of wines is the same as in First Class, while other in-flight treats include a (for a change) truly practical amenity kit, hot-towel services and ice-cream if you have a sudden yearning.

Eating aboard a Swiss flight is the more pleasurable in that, along with superbly prepared food, one has lashings of arm and leg room--certainly the most I have enjoyed in many a day. Come sleepy time, with the seat fully inclined, one can stretch virtually full length.

Flights arrive in Beijing around 8am, by which time you have tucked away a superb English-style breakfast (choice of three main dishes), including an innovative combo of country ham and smoked beef with Gruyere and Brie. For me at least it was a far better way to start the day than my usual fare of marmalade on toast.

Overall verdict: Nice one, Swiss.