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All Fired Up in Sanlitun

Surya, the Sun God, worshipped in India for 5,000 years as a harbinger of peace, health and prosperity, is finally shining down on Sanlitun in the form of a wholly authentic Indian restaurant. Opened last month to a fanfare of music, singing and the applause of local celebrities, it has quickly taken its place in the top echelon of Beijing's more popular Indian dining venues.

Its opening--with the inauguration by the Indian Ambassador to China--fulfils the near-lifetime dream of manager Victor Raj, who at last can now offer his guests the identical North-Indian cuisine found in any restaurant back home. "After many years of managing restaurants in Singapore, Thailand and Beijing, I can finally get away from 'Englishman curry'," he said with relief and, perhaps, tongue in cheek."Surya's vindaloo is HOT. If you can't take it, don't order it. We won't make a mild version!"

Food is cooked by three master chefs from India, using Indian untensils and a Tandoori oven, with freshly ground spices, accompanied by homemade relishes and served in exquisite, hand-beaten copper dishes."Everything is imported, of course. This is a little bit of India in the heart of Beijing," said Raj.

Surya's elegant "fine-dining" room is upstairs, and a homely Kashmiri room below. Each has 36 covers and offers the same menu, the main difference being that downstairs diners sit on cushions at low tables.

The menu is Indian-style extensive and took three months to design. Besides the classic Tandoori dishes, there is a wide choice of vegetarian food. "Again," says Raj, "we tried to get a balance of what is popular in Northern India. However, Surya also offers Tandoori lobster and crab, and a signature Murgh Shaan E Surya (a creamy chicken dish).

Diners will also find Rhajastan Bhindi, crispy-fried "lady fingers" with masala sauce. It's all very different, very Surya. Vegetarian dishes are truly vegetarian, with no sneaky injections of chicken stock. "And definitely no beef or pork," adds Raj.