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Hedonism Prevails at Red Capital Club

Be you a local resident, tourist or any other kind of visitor, you will find few restaurants more unusual and intriguing than the Red Capital. Although it's officially called a club, it is in fact a fine restaurant offering all the discreet ambience and other attributes of a private club--somewhat surprising in that it is a shrine to the early days of the People's Republic of China.

This handsomely restored courtyard restaurant, nestling in a hutong off Ping'an Dajie, is dedicated to the hedonistic things of life--superb food and fine wines and cigars--and to the spirit of Chinese capitalism. Each piece of furniture was released from one of the Cultural Revolution's reparations committees, so much of it in the club's bar is stenciled with committees' names and the inventory numbers of the piece.

Chefs here, specializing in Zhongnahai cuisine based on the favorite dishes of puritanical senior communist officials, have been lured from latter-day imperial kitchens. The owner, who prefers not to be identified, says the restaurant's cuisine reflects the past 50 years of Chinese history, and notes that there is a story behind each dish.

No question: dine at the Red Capital Club and you will find yourself transported back to the 1950s. Wallow in its unique atmosphere, and even allow yourself to pretend that you have the ear of Chairman Mao himself. First, though, ensure you have a reservation. Without one, you won't get past the door.