Diplomatic Nudge Brings First Greek Restaurant

The amazing thing is not that Beijing's food scene now includes a top-class Greek estaurant, but that it took so long for this fine cuisine to become available to local diners. It may even be true that the recently opened Athena Greek Restaurant-Bar in anlitun is the first of its type in the whole of China. Whatever the truth, it still took the urging of the Greek ambassador to China to convince the Athena's parent company to open a restaurant in the city. He had been astonished that a major world capital lacked a restaurant representing his homeland.

While it took two years to come about, it has proved a wise move -- witness today's increasing, regular clientele just five months after its doors were opened.

Such success would normally result in the traditional Greek celebration where piles of crockery are seized by staff and guests and smashed to the floor. The idea was vetoed by the Beijing management, but hope among Greek diners is that, in the future, the tradition will be upheld.

The Athena, named after the ancient mythological patron goddess of Athens, and goddess of wisdom and warfare, is a stylish, warmly welcoming restaurant that is spotlessly clean without being in any way sterile. It is very Greek in decor and detail, atmosphere being added by a thoughtful collection of paintings and photographs that remind diners of the beauty of the Greek capital, other parts of the country and the beautiful island of Crete. The Acropolis, pottery, clay statuettes, mythological gods and other artifacts ... all are here as a pleasing backdrop to a fine menu of traditional favorites, lesser-known dishes and a wide choice of appropriate wines and other drinks. The relaxing atmosphere is reinforced by Greek music.

Manager Wang Tong believes in authenticity, hence the Athena's importation of genuine Greek olive oil, wines, cheese and other key ingredients. The head chef is Greek, his busiest time of the week being Saturday's special Greek Night. Patrons are treated to a free glass of wine and dessert while Greek tunes are played by a live band whose musicians all work at the US embassy.

The food here is delicious, and the more impressive in its impact on my Chinese palate which had never before sampled Greek favorites such as Gyros (grilled lamb pieces on pita bread); Moussaka (oven-baked layers of eggplant, minced meat and grated cheese); and Souvlaki (beef, pork or lamb kebabs on pita bread or rice with traditional garnishes). The homemade Tzatziki, a cold appetizer comprising yogurt, cucumber, garlic and olive oil, is equally pleasing. Just how these basic ingredients can be combined into such a fine starter almost defies culinary logic.

But Greek food is not just about the traditional favorites known the world over. The remainder of the Athena's listings provide a nice contrast whether you are into meat or fish. Nor are vegetarians overlooked. Seafood lovers will enjoy the Calamari, squid filled with rice, onion, peppers, raisins and coconut, while meat-eaters are recommended to try the Country Chicken, which comes with cheese.

Leave room for a dessert, again a good choice embracing Milk Pie with Syrup (or ice cream); an unforgettable Walnut Cake with Chocolate Sauce; and Halvas, a traditional "afters" that comes with semolina.

The Athena may be "all Greek" to you when you go in, but you will be happily replete when you leave.

Athena Greek Restaurant-Bar
No.1 West 5 Street
Sanlitun, Chaoyang District.
Tel: 6464 6036; Fax: 6460 3938
Open: 11am-11pm, 7 days.